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<blockquote data-quote="adas" data-source="post: 4115460" data-attributes="member: 567046"><p>heavy enough wire being.....?</p><p>The largest difference I had in my electrical in my M3(which has THICK *** stock wire) was batttery to chassis and engine block to chassis in 1/0. With a stock 120amp alt and stock battery, I could do 1300w with a .4v drop in voltage. Before, it went down 1v. Trust me, those grounds WILL make a difference if you have stock grounding wires.</p><p></p><p>After an upgraded battery, my drop was a bit less. Also, If your still runnning the stock battery, a better duralast/everstart/ or better yet a sealed Kinetik/stinger 1800 would help you out<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="adas, post: 4115460, member: 567046"] heavy enough wire being.....? The largest difference I had in my electrical in my M3(which has THICK *** stock wire) was batttery to chassis and engine block to chassis in 1/0. With a stock 120amp alt and stock battery, I could do 1300w with a .4v drop in voltage. Before, it went down 1v. Trust me, those grounds WILL make a difference if you have stock grounding wires. After an upgraded battery, my drop was a bit less. Also, If your still runnning the stock battery, a better duralast/everstart/ or better yet a sealed Kinetik/stinger 1800 would help you out:) [/QUOTE]
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