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Expert Opinion sought for modular system installation
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<blockquote data-quote="mgctch" data-source="post: 8924378" data-attributes="member: 694747"><p>Initially, I would express my thanks for the time that it took to prepare such a long, detailed and thoughtful response.</p><p></p><p>Regarding Hal. It is AI created jumble of platitudes with no actual recommendations nor observations. Unlike your thoughtful post, I ignored "HAL."</p><p></p><p>Within my lengthy post, I noted that I would be using the Helix Ultra S DSP that you mentioned. So your comments on DSPs is noted, but I will just use the Ultra S. A Brax is more DSP than I need and I will need minimum of 12 channels for my system so Helix Ultra S it is.</p><p></p><p> Re sound deadening. Yes, of course you are correct. All equipment in world is not as useful as reducing outside noise and dampening vibration in the car. I did not mention installation of sound deadening material in my post because I thought it a standard assumption with a SQ build. I intend to use a triple insulation layered install. For patriotic reasons as well as performance, I probably will use the Second Skin line of products for deadening.</p><p></p><p>Regarding the DA mini 8 super tweeter, I have had second thoughts, as you mentioned, on putting in a super tweeter. More reading confirms your comment that the DA Mini is just NOT well matched in my proposed build. In any event, rather than the mini 8, I thought about using the Steg SST 50. HOWEVER, I am not sure I would like the high end "hiss" associated with super tweeters. I use an Aperion super tweeter in my home audio build without problems, generally, But,, Based on auditory studies, the "hiss" is usually associated with nonlinearity frequency rise in the 12000 -15000 range. I have NO idea whether the Mini 8 or Steg SST 50 suffer from that. So, I now lean to just installing a 3 way, with a Steg MSS3 4" mid and Steg MMS6 6.5 woofer. Once that is installed and the Mundorf tweeter placed I will see/hear if the highs meet my needs. I might "experiment" with a super tweeter later, the problem is I dont want to continuously pay to make mods of my a pillars. I initially thought to install a super tweeter at the same time as all the others for efficiency purposes AND if I do not like the high highs just shut it off via the Helix DSP, but I now am unsure if its worth it as you mentioned. Experimenting with a Mini 8 at 60 is doable, experimenting with a Steg SST 50 at 700 is not. </p><p></p><p>Plainly, by switching equipment from one car to another, placement of equipment in the second car will need separate tuning. But that is what a DSP, especially the 12 channel Helix Ultra S is for. The point is NOT to buy equipment that is NOT usable in the second vehicle. To that end, I have rethought using a 6x9. There is no place for that in a Lexus 300 or 350. So, I may now go with a component rear fill. But that problem is minor to me.</p><p></p><p>Regarding aiming of the Mundorfs, I did not put into my post which was long as it was, that I intended to place both the Mundorfs and any midrange into aluminum pods sold by Valicar of Germany, both to provide ressonance support, insulation from sun and heat, as well as ease of installation. I do not want to pay for custom made A pillars which take time to make and would interfere as well with the operation of air bag deployment. Moreover, as screw in pods, The Valicar pods would be modular and transferable to a subsequent vehicle. Lastly, I would place the pods on ball joints to aid in postitioning. I have seen tests results where the aiming should be at the hearrest of the driver. Yes, it minimizes the passenger side, but I am old and have no/few passengers. The sound is solely for me. Finally, I would experiment with placing the Mundorfs horizontally not vertically in order to widen the soundstage. the spread of sound up and down from the horizontal placement of the Mundorfs in a car is less important that the lateral dispersion moreover horizontal placement minimizes glass reflection. I infer the reason horizontal placement of AMT tweeters and Mundorfs in particular is not done is because their rectangular shape is dificult to install horizontally in a pillar thus they are installed veritically and hence hard to "aim" properly. This problem is solved by using premade aluminum pods attachable anywhere In the car and aimable via ball joints.</p><p></p><p>The cost of tuning or equipment to tune oneself is immaterial. The equipment is around d 6-8000. Another few thousand for installation and tuning is a minor add on cost. However, that being said, and watching all the videos on You Tube, learning to tune oneself, seems a fun skill to pick up in my dotage. Only problem is I use a Mac not a Windows computer and Helix operates on a DOS system. Maybe I pickup a 200.00 DOS computer.</p><p></p><p>Again, thank you so much for your input.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mgctch, post: 8924378, member: 694747"] Initially, I would express my thanks for the time that it took to prepare such a long, detailed and thoughtful response. Regarding Hal. It is AI created jumble of platitudes with no actual recommendations nor observations. Unlike your thoughtful post, I ignored "HAL." Within my lengthy post, I noted that I would be using the Helix Ultra S DSP that you mentioned. So your comments on DSPs is noted, but I will just use the Ultra S. A Brax is more DSP than I need and I will need minimum of 12 channels for my system so Helix Ultra S it is. Re sound deadening. Yes, of course you are correct. All equipment in world is not as useful as reducing outside noise and dampening vibration in the car. I did not mention installation of sound deadening material in my post because I thought it a standard assumption with a SQ build. I intend to use a triple insulation layered install. For patriotic reasons as well as performance, I probably will use the Second Skin line of products for deadening. Regarding the DA mini 8 super tweeter, I have had second thoughts, as you mentioned, on putting in a super tweeter. More reading confirms your comment that the DA Mini is just NOT well matched in my proposed build. In any event, rather than the mini 8, I thought about using the Steg SST 50. HOWEVER, I am not sure I would like the high end "hiss" associated with super tweeters. I use an Aperion super tweeter in my home audio build without problems, generally, But,, Based on auditory studies, the "hiss" is usually associated with nonlinearity frequency rise in the 12000 -15000 range. I have NO idea whether the Mini 8 or Steg SST 50 suffer from that. So, I now lean to just installing a 3 way, with a Steg MSS3 4" mid and Steg MMS6 6.5 woofer. Once that is installed and the Mundorf tweeter placed I will see/hear if the highs meet my needs. I might "experiment" with a super tweeter later, the problem is I dont want to continuously pay to make mods of my a pillars. I initially thought to install a super tweeter at the same time as all the others for efficiency purposes AND if I do not like the high highs just shut it off via the Helix DSP, but I now am unsure if its worth it as you mentioned. Experimenting with a Mini 8 at 60 is doable, experimenting with a Steg SST 50 at 700 is not. Plainly, by switching equipment from one car to another, placement of equipment in the second car will need separate tuning. But that is what a DSP, especially the 12 channel Helix Ultra S is for. The point is NOT to buy equipment that is NOT usable in the second vehicle. To that end, I have rethought using a 6x9. There is no place for that in a Lexus 300 or 350. So, I may now go with a component rear fill. But that problem is minor to me. Regarding aiming of the Mundorfs, I did not put into my post which was long as it was, that I intended to place both the Mundorfs and any midrange into aluminum pods sold by Valicar of Germany, both to provide ressonance support, insulation from sun and heat, as well as ease of installation. I do not want to pay for custom made A pillars which take time to make and would interfere as well with the operation of air bag deployment. Moreover, as screw in pods, The Valicar pods would be modular and transferable to a subsequent vehicle. Lastly, I would place the pods on ball joints to aid in postitioning. I have seen tests results where the aiming should be at the hearrest of the driver. Yes, it minimizes the passenger side, but I am old and have no/few passengers. The sound is solely for me. Finally, I would experiment with placing the Mundorfs horizontally not vertically in order to widen the soundstage. the spread of sound up and down from the horizontal placement of the Mundorfs in a car is less important that the lateral dispersion moreover horizontal placement minimizes glass reflection. I infer the reason horizontal placement of AMT tweeters and Mundorfs in particular is not done is because their rectangular shape is dificult to install horizontally in a pillar thus they are installed veritically and hence hard to "aim" properly. This problem is solved by using premade aluminum pods attachable anywhere In the car and aimable via ball joints. The cost of tuning or equipment to tune oneself is immaterial. The equipment is around d 6-8000. Another few thousand for installation and tuning is a minor add on cost. However, that being said, and watching all the videos on You Tube, learning to tune oneself, seems a fun skill to pick up in my dotage. Only problem is I use a Mac not a Windows computer and Helix operates on a DOS system. Maybe I pickup a 200.00 DOS computer. Again, thank you so much for your input. [/QUOTE]
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