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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8924374" data-attributes="member: 689267">Oh, Hal, you're too humble... or scared!And for the hard part, trying to build a system for one car in the hope you can move it to another, not a great plan for success. Different cabins, different requirements for output, different tuning, just not a good thing to plan on.Just consider that most often, what you save from this build, you can likely put in the next and be good with it.If you're considering such a system, a 4-way front stage is redundant, a bit overkill in a car, as it really nets you little if anything in return, money that would be better spent elsewhere in the system.Every time you cross drivers at different frequencies, you insert polarity/phase shifts in the output. Two is simple, three is a bit more difficult and is, well, unnecessary.Even when using DSPs, it's still a greater task to accommodate and correct.AMT/Ribbon tweeters are very nice-sounding drivers, but are notoriously difficult to aim in a car, and the Mondorf is a very expensive driver to boot.And it's almost blasphemous to mix Dayton Mini's with other high-end drivers. The mini is a decent little guy, but it's just hanging out with the big boys if adding it to a good three-way and it will never keep up or sound as good as a decent set of Belisma or Scan-speak beryliums, just not even the same converstaion, like powering a JL 12W6 with a 250 watt, peak power 10000 watt BOSS monoblock, you just don;t do it.There is simply no reason to cut out from a great set of tweeters, partial duty, and have the mini come in and finish up where it is already way behind the game. Just don't do it.And, if you're thinking of just overlaying the mini on top of a great set of tweeters, that's a mess too; you absolutely do not want multiple high-frequency drivers doing all or part of the same thing the other is doing, it's a sound stage no-no.Multiple tweeters in different locations will destroy your stage, again, just don;t do it.Additionally, unless you have 5.1, 7.1, or Atoms recorded material, and a head unit that will actually decode it and send the multiple discrete channel information to the speakers, it's simply not the same as a home theater, and since 98% of all music is recorded and mixed in two-channel stereo, why ruin a good thing?Leave surround sound for the home theater, bail the center channel speaker, go with a 3-way from stage and differential rear fill using a full range driver in the rear good from around 300 to 2k, and you're golden. Consider a 10" or 12" low-profile sealed setup such as the stereo integrity BM-11. Two of them in a 1 cu ft stuffed and sealed cabinet on a 1500 watt amp is going to destroy any 8" you use, hands down.Were talking about an OD of 14"x6"x 32" box with two of those drivers - or cut it by half and use 1!As for the rest, that HU is a great unit, fine with that.Assuming you go with an active 3-way front end, and differential rear fill using a single high-end full-range driver, coaxial or two-way components in the rear, then you'll need at least 10-12 channels of DSP.Keep in mind that unless you have a good calibration MIC and the ability to tune the system, you're looking at an additional $500 to $750 just to have someone tune it either there or remotely!There are a couple that are my favorites, the miniDSP C-8x12 DL with the best autotuner on the market, 8 in and 12 out, perfect for someone getting into the DSP end of things and not wanting to shell out loads of money to have someone else tune.It still requires a bit of experience or a willingness to learn, but there is a lot of help on the miniDSP site.The Helix DSP Ultra S - 12 is one unless you decide to go with one that is also an amplifier, but that limits the flexibility of the amplification you will want to use. Not many of the multi-channel DSP processors/amplifiers have standard output, which, in my book, is a must.Another is the Down fo sound EZY-1216 DSP, the undisputed budget king.What I don't see is anything related to noise or vibration suppression.I could go on and on and on with recommendations, but if I were my 25-year-old me and knew then what I know now after 40+ years in the hobby, I would consider visiting the Resonix site and learn about deadening the car first, it's that important. The best equipment in the world sounds better, but still only marginally if there is a lot of noise in the car that you're trying to overcome.I've got time and experience in SQ builds, more equipment knowledge packed into my head that you'll ever want to know about, but you really need to start there.Resonix is expensive, and while there are alternatives, starting there, prioritizing the installation of all the drivers, and quieting the environment will produce better results with lesser gear than the very best gear in a lesser installation.</blockquote>

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