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<blockquote data-quote="SicAudio" data-source="post: 5920388" data-attributes="member: 609136">Like I said before, and so that others that have no clue about it obviously, the IAC and PCV will not cause driveability issues at higher rpm&#039;s and the PCV only affects mileage never drivabilty. (IAC = Idle Air Control&nbsp; I.E. it only affects the idle!&nbsp; PCV is positive crankcase ventilation it runs off vacuum from the motor),&nbsp; you have a bad vacuum leak that you told me about and we discussed it in PM&#039;s, fix the leak and see where we are at.&nbsp; do not waste money yet on anything til that leak is fixed.&nbsp; Fixing the leak if it is just 1 small hose , will at most cost you 2-3 bucks for some new line at a parts store.&nbsp; engines run on vacuum,&nbsp; without it, they do all kinds of strange things that seem random.&nbsp; It is a text book sympton.&nbsp; That doesn&#039;t mean something else isn&#039;t wrong&nbsp; however,&nbsp; but you have to start at key points and not just waste money throwing parts at it.as well, you can test the spark plug wires easily with a dmm for resistance,&nbsp; you want no more than 5k - 7k ohms per foot;&nbsp; I.E.&nbsp; 3 feet is a maximum of 21k ohms ect....&nbsp;&nbsp; if it isnt running rough and the rpms are just dipping that isn&#039;t even close to being a wire or ignition issue.here is a test that you can do that will make the engine light come on and verify if the IAC is working.&nbsp; unplug the wire at the IAC on the top or side (depending on what motor you have) of the throttle body housing, look for a silver or black cylinder about the diameter of a toothpaste tube and 2-4 inches long.&nbsp; then try to start your car and let it run.&nbsp; the check engine will come on in 1-3 minutes and when it does you know the IAC is fine,&nbsp; and it will not idle at all on its own ( even worse than it is now with that huge leak you said you have).&nbsp; also you have an OBD II class 3 vehicle computer,&nbsp; it will tell you if you have a misfire issue as well and it does it very fast.&nbsp;&nbsp; just do like we discussed and find and fix the leak.&nbsp; I am betting it is the only problem you have.&nbsp; you may also want to check the vacuum line to the fuel regulator as well.&nbsp; for about 40-80$&nbsp;&nbsp; you can have most any shop just diagnose it for you which is less than an IAC or plugs and wires and then you wont be throwing good money after bad advice.let me know what you find //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif&nbsp; good luck.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="SicAudio, post: 5920388, member: 609136"] Like I said before, and so that others that have no clue about it obviously, the IAC and PCV will not cause driveability issues at higher rpm's and the PCV only affects mileage never drivabilty. (IAC = Idle Air Control I.E. it only affects the idle! PCV is positive crankcase ventilation it runs off vacuum from the motor), you have a bad vacuum leak that you told me about and we discussed it in PM's, fix the leak and see where we are at. do not waste money yet on anything til that leak is fixed. Fixing the leak if it is just 1 small hose , will at most cost you 2-3 bucks for some new line at a parts store. engines run on vacuum, without it, they do all kinds of strange things that seem random. It is a text book sympton. That doesn't mean something else isn't wrong however, but you have to start at key points and not just waste money throwing parts at it. as well, you can test the spark plug wires easily with a dmm for resistance, you want no more than 5k - 7k ohms per foot; I.E. 3 feet is a maximum of 21k ohms ect.... if it isnt running rough and the rpms are just dipping that isn't even close to being a wire or ignition issue. here is a test that you can do that will make the engine light come on and verify if the IAC is working. unplug the wire at the IAC on the top or side (depending on what motor you have) of the throttle body housing, look for a silver or black cylinder about the diameter of a toothpaste tube and 2-4 inches long. then try to start your car and let it run. the check engine will come on in 1-3 minutes and when it does you know the IAC is fine, and it will not idle at all on its own ( even worse than it is now with that huge leak you said you have). also you have an OBD II class 3 vehicle computer, it will tell you if you have a misfire issue as well and it does it very fast. just do like we discussed and find and fix the leak. I am betting it is the only problem you have. you may also want to check the vacuum line to the fuel regulator as well. for about 40-80$ you can have most any shop just diagnose it for you which is less than an IAC or plugs and wires and then you wont be throwing good money after bad advice. let me know what you find [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] good luck. [/QUOTE]

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