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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8920212" data-attributes="member: 689267">With advances in battery tech, I'd worry about getting the auxiliary battery first. Any of the ones suggested is more than adequate.As with any application, everything is a compromise, and deciding which way to go with a 2 to 2.5k-watt system is one of the more difficult choices to make.It's kind of on the smaller side of what I'd consider large wattage systems, but it's really right there at the point where you have to start getting into some serious (and costly) electrical upgrades to make it work at it's peak. As with anything car audio, too much is almost always better than too little.All the lithium units function substantially faster than LA or AGM batteries do, not as fast as a capacitor (which are almost instant), but unlike a capacitor, they also have storage capacity that capacitors don't have - the better compromise in my thinking. But at $100.00, the Ioxus ultracap (which is a 375 farad cap) is a decent option too. No need to spend $100 on a 5 to20 farad old-school capacitor if you can get 375 farads for the same $ amount.Frankly, even if you haven't started yet, that Titna8 on eBay is a steal. Get one before that seller sells out.When the battery under the hood needs replacing, just grab the biggest lead-acid or AGM that will fit that is within the budget. Spec for spec, the Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) is essentially just a sealed lead-acid battery, that is going cost about 50%-150% more than its lead-acid counterpart, and if the specs happen to be virtually the same, won't work significantly better for audio if there is an aux lithium battery taking up audio duty that's wired in parallel.You will get improved/faster charging, better vibration resistance, and 50%-95% longer life from the AGM, so while not a bad investment, cost, not performance, is more of a factor.AH is a measurement of storage capacity; the higher the AH number, the higher the storage capacity, relative to voltage and current.It's the total amount of electrical charge the battery can deliver at a specific current over a set period of time.In a 2.5-3k watt system, you don't need to upgrade the alternator, just not necessary anymore like it used to be, that's my opionion and I've not been shown that it isn't correct, least not these days considering the alternatives.I'm running 3.5-5k systems with 1 primary (Bosch AGM) and 1 aux battery (GloweVoltage S1), on a 110A stock alt, and never have a single issue with voltage drop, dimming, or any battery capacity issues whatsoever.There are different approaches to how one fills this need, too. I tend to look at the overall cost/benefit ratio given the size and use of the system one is putting together to determine the most bang for the buck.What you decide from the suggestions you get also depends on your level of DIY capabilities, installation prowess, and what you're willing to put into the build yourself.</blockquote>

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