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<blockquote data-quote="Lasherž" data-source="post: 8716211" data-attributes="member: 679555"><p>Was asking to see if it stretched across the exhaust manifold, but yours doesn't. Still there's a lot of radiated heat in an engine, primarily the exhaust manifold. You can always take it to a place like autozone and see if it's overloaded for the wire size, but I doubt it is. They'll hook up a DC clamp meter and see how much amperage is going through each wire. Do you have a stock alternator? Also what size is the wire leading from alternator to battery? Is the cable proper copper or is it some aluminum garbage? I always recommend tinned copper strands rather than OFC for the engine compartment area since it goes through advanced wear due to heat and water vapor from the road, over time OFC will increase slightly in resistance.</p><p></p><p>Most likely it's not a real issue, you may just need to rethink how you route your cable. Even at a temperature that you can't touch it comfortably there's a long way to go on the rating of a wire and the heat most likely isn't caused by resistance from overpowering unless it's the wrong choice in wire.</p><p></p><p>That's actually not that much for a voltage to bounce either, the alternator is likely trying to save power but there's a ton of things going on that drain power, most likely the voltage change is either loads inside the car fluctuating a lot, your car's energy saving trying to keep the alternator from tugging more than it has to, your battery is getting weaker, or a combination of them all.</p><p></p><p>What voltages are you referring to when you say .3-.6 voltage flux?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lasherž, post: 8716211, member: 679555"] Was asking to see if it stretched across the exhaust manifold, but yours doesn't. Still there's a lot of radiated heat in an engine, primarily the exhaust manifold. You can always take it to a place like autozone and see if it's overloaded for the wire size, but I doubt it is. They'll hook up a DC clamp meter and see how much amperage is going through each wire. Do you have a stock alternator? Also what size is the wire leading from alternator to battery? Is the cable proper copper or is it some aluminum garbage? I always recommend tinned copper strands rather than OFC for the engine compartment area since it goes through advanced wear due to heat and water vapor from the road, over time OFC will increase slightly in resistance. Most likely it's not a real issue, you may just need to rethink how you route your cable. Even at a temperature that you can't touch it comfortably there's a long way to go on the rating of a wire and the heat most likely isn't caused by resistance from overpowering unless it's the wrong choice in wire. That's actually not that much for a voltage to bounce either, the alternator is likely trying to save power but there's a ton of things going on that drain power, most likely the voltage change is either loads inside the car fluctuating a lot, your car's energy saving trying to keep the alternator from tugging more than it has to, your battery is getting weaker, or a combination of them all. What voltages are you referring to when you say .3-.6 voltage flux? [/QUOTE]
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