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Message: <blockquote data-quote="pegasis50" data-source="post: 5420195" data-attributes="member: 605489">I am by no means a Car Audio Amp expert, but do know a little about DC electronics (I teach it).It would appear that:1) the amp is bad (they didnt do a thorough, full load test)or2) the amp is drawing too much current, thus going into protection mode.  This could be caused by several things, but most likely is do to wiring in some way shape or form.Have you verified the supply voltage at the amp under heavy loads?  A lower voltage will draw more current, and thus potentially shut the amp down.  With the car running, you can expect to have a good 13-13.8 volts at the amp.  Maybe more, but not less.  Most charging systems put out around 13.5-14.5 VDC.  You should have about this at you amp.  If not, its starving.  You can also do a voltage drop test across the positive cable.  Run the + (red) of your DVOM (digital meter) to battery positive, and the - (blck) to the Positive input of your amp.  Check this under load.  You want the meter on DC volts and it should read near 0, like .2-.5 volts.  (this is what you are losing through the cable).  IF you get anything over .5 volts or so, you have a Voltage Supply issue to the amp.  You can test your ground cable the same way, and expect the same results.  Neither connection from amp to battery terminal should lose more than .5 volts or so.A good ground to the battery is the preferred way to ground the system.  The body of the car has extremely high resistance as it is assembled in pieces with seam sealer in between.  Grounding to the body would only help if your initial run the battery was too small, or had connection issues (see above).I am assuming you have calculated the size conductors you need and are running the right sizes.As a side note, your new car could have less voltage/amperage available to the amp, and thus could be starving it for power.  This would explain why it occurred when you made the swap.  Testing connections and using proper wiring can go a long way towards fixing this, but may not cure it completely.  A capacitor, and then a second battery may be the fix. (this will be evident when you voltage drop the cables under load-if you have a solid voltage, this is NOT your problem.)I hope this helps.  There are many other things that come into play, but this is a good starting point to cover the basics.Let me know if I can help any further.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</blockquote>

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