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<blockquote data-quote="bigbang" data-source="post: 3221645" data-attributes="member: 576408"><p>The parts express amps just plug into a wall outlet, plain and simple. The amp runs off 120v and it counter sinks into a square hole in the box. It doesn&#039;t matter how an amp gets its power as long as it supplies the necessary voltage at a low ohm load to the subs. Grossly oversimplified, in cars an amp uses a transformer to raise the voltage to whatever the max output to the speaker terminals will be. In my home theater, I have a 250 watt RMS amp with a remote control for crossover and gain. I made a roughly 2.5 cubic foot sealed box and ran an old kicker Comp VR. Total costed me around $350 (with sub, amp, and materials), and I have much more bass than most home theater subs at best buy. After all try finding a home theater sub with 14mm xmax, major $. If I wanted, I could probably turn car audio component sets into full range units by putting a pair wired in series into a box to give me an 8 ohm resistance. Wouldent be cost effective though. People can use car subs in home theaters as long as they match amp and sub impedance, and audiophiles can put expensive home theater drivers in thier cars using custom made crossovers. Just dont use a mondo SPL street bass woofer in a home theater expecting the overstructured woofer to perform subtle or low volume bass notes accurately. The best sounding units aren&#039;t the most powerfull ones, Thats why ribbon tweeters and electrostatic designs dont get the loudest or handle the most power, but the light wieght design is super accurate.</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="bigbang, post: 3221645, member: 576408"] The parts express amps just plug into a wall outlet, plain and simple. The amp runs off 120v and it counter sinks into a square hole in the box. It doesn't matter how an amp gets its power as long as it supplies the necessary voltage at a low ohm load to the subs. Grossly oversimplified, in cars an amp uses a transformer to raise the voltage to whatever the max output to the speaker terminals will be. In my home theater, I have a 250 watt RMS amp with a remote control for crossover and gain. I made a roughly 2.5 cubic foot sealed box and ran an old kicker Comp VR. Total costed me around $350 (with sub, amp, and materials), and I have much more bass than most home theater subs at best buy. After all try finding a home theater sub with 14mm xmax, major $. If I wanted, I could probably turn car audio component sets into full range units by putting a pair wired in series into a box to give me an 8 ohm resistance. Wouldent be cost effective though. People can use car subs in home theaters as long as they match amp and sub impedance, and audiophiles can put expensive home theater drivers in thier cars using custom made crossovers. Just dont use a mondo SPL street bass woofer in a home theater expecting the overstructured woofer to perform subtle or low volume bass notes accurately. The best sounding units aren't the most powerfull ones, Thats why ribbon tweeters and electrostatic designs dont get the loudest or handle the most power, but the light wieght design is super accurate. [/QUOTE]

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