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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Do I need an additional battery? I already have 2 Something isn't adding up?
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<blockquote data-quote="Dafaseles" data-source="post: 8752456" data-attributes="member: 681482"><p>I have a 2011 Silverado and from what I've read, 2006 and up all have a regulated voltage controller. Also, that RVC doesn't like it much when you ground to the frame. It doesn't get a good reading on if the batteries need to be charged when they need it. So my "big 3" has to be more like a big 2. I have a 1/0 gauge cable from the battery ground, going through the RVC "doughnut" grounded to the engine block, and everything else (secondary battery ground, amplifiers to a solid distribution block with 2 runs of 4/0) is ground straight to the alternator ground. If I'm not mistaken, it's called a closed loop circuit. I could be wrong on the name though.</p><p>When the truck first starts, or when it senses the battery needs recharging, it'll push the alternator to 15.3 ish. After it warms up, it'll drop down to 13.8 ish. But, at least on mine, if I keep the headlights on, it stays around 14.7 charging. It'll only charge the batteries to 80%-85%ish though to save on fuel and battery life.</p><p>The only way I've found to deal with the RVC is wire the system like I've stated, or get an externally regulated alternator and bypass the system completely.</p><p>Hope this helps.</p><p></p><p>P.s. those Optima batteries are only manufacturer rated at 72 AH a piece, and like previously stated, are not what they used to be. </p><p></p><p>One last thing, how many runs between the alternator and the battery do you have? And how many runs between batteries do you have? On that power, I personally would do 2 runs from alternator to battery, and 2 runs from battery to battery. If you haven't already. That will help aid with the speed the batteries recover at</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dafaseles, post: 8752456, member: 681482"] I have a 2011 Silverado and from what I've read, 2006 and up all have a regulated voltage controller. Also, that RVC doesn't like it much when you ground to the frame. It doesn't get a good reading on if the batteries need to be charged when they need it. So my "big 3" has to be more like a big 2. I have a 1/0 gauge cable from the battery ground, going through the RVC "doughnut" grounded to the engine block, and everything else (secondary battery ground, amplifiers to a solid distribution block with 2 runs of 4/0) is ground straight to the alternator ground. If I'm not mistaken, it's called a closed loop circuit. I could be wrong on the name though. When the truck first starts, or when it senses the battery needs recharging, it'll push the alternator to 15.3 ish. After it warms up, it'll drop down to 13.8 ish. But, at least on mine, if I keep the headlights on, it stays around 14.7 charging. It'll only charge the batteries to 80%-85%ish though to save on fuel and battery life. The only way I've found to deal with the RVC is wire the system like I've stated, or get an externally regulated alternator and bypass the system completely. Hope this helps. P.s. those Optima batteries are only manufacturer rated at 72 AH a piece, and like previously stated, are not what they used to be. One last thing, how many runs between the alternator and the battery do you have? And how many runs between batteries do you have? On that power, I personally would do 2 runs from alternator to battery, and 2 runs from battery to battery. If you haven't already. That will help aid with the speed the batteries recover at [/QUOTE]
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Do I need an additional battery? I already have 2 Something isn't adding up?
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