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<blockquote data-quote="thylantyr" data-source="post: 2200194" data-attributes="member: 560358"><p>* Update *</p><p></p><p><a href="http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/cables/" target="_blank">http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/cables/</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Pictures are numbered 1.jpg through xx.jpg to see</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>step by step progress. </strong></p><p></p><p>I have a few directories.</p><p></p><p><strong>Belden_8760_Cable </strong></p><p></p><p>This is the analog cable I use with Dayton RCA and XLR.</p><p></p><p>Techflex is an option to make the cable pretty.</p><p></p><p><strong>Belden_1694A_Crimp_RCA_Cable</strong></p><p></p><p>The coax cable I used for my digital audio connection between the DVD player and Roland mixer. I will use this cable to rewire by cable TV as the picture quality isn't great.</p><p></p><p><strong>Belden_1694A_Solder_RCA_Cable</strong></p><p></p><p>I bought a while back some Dayton RCA that interfaced to</p><p></p><p>coax cable, solder type. I wasn't sure about how this would</p><p></p><p>work as I don't clearly see how to solder the braid. I did</p><p></p><p>some tests and figured that you really can't unless you</p><p></p><p>physically solder a wire to the braid to the metal RCA</p><p></p><p>chassis. But, I noticed that this Belden cable does fit snug</p><p></p><p>so it might work well. There is a set screw on the RCA</p><p></p><p>onnector that you loosen, insert cable, solder the center</p><p></p><p>pin, then screw the set screw tight to put pressure on the</p><p></p><p>braid to make good electrical contact. It's not bad and it</p><p></p><p>can cost less than buying crimping tools -- but the Canare</p><p></p><p>RCA's with crimping are actually rated for 75 ohm,</p><p></p><p>200mhz, I don't know if the Dayton are. This probably isn't</p><p></p><p>a really big deal for an average installation.</p><p></p><p><strong>Canare_TS100_Coax_Stripper</strong></p><p></p><p>Expensive, about $60-$70. If you only have to make one</p><p></p><p>cable you can do without and just be careful when you cut</p><p></p><p>the cable. You can use the ruler shown in the pics to get an</p><p></p><p>idea on how to make the cuts.</p><p></p><p><strong>SPDIF_AES_Transformer</strong></p><p></p><p>Not DIY: RCA to BNC to mate with the transformer.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="thylantyr, post: 2200194, member: 560358"] * Update * [URL="http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/cables/"]http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/cables/[/URL] [B]Pictures are numbered 1.jpg through xx.jpg to see[/B] [B]step by step progress. [/B] I have a few directories. [B]Belden_8760_Cable [/B] This is the analog cable I use with Dayton RCA and XLR. Techflex is an option to make the cable pretty. [B]Belden_1694A_Crimp_RCA_Cable[/B] The coax cable I used for my digital audio connection between the DVD player and Roland mixer. I will use this cable to rewire by cable TV as the picture quality isn't great. [B]Belden_1694A_Solder_RCA_Cable[/B] I bought a while back some Dayton RCA that interfaced to coax cable, solder type. I wasn't sure about how this would work as I don't clearly see how to solder the braid. I did some tests and figured that you really can't unless you physically solder a wire to the braid to the metal RCA chassis. But, I noticed that this Belden cable does fit snug so it might work well. There is a set screw on the RCA onnector that you loosen, insert cable, solder the center pin, then screw the set screw tight to put pressure on the braid to make good electrical contact. It's not bad and it can cost less than buying crimping tools -- but the Canare RCA's with crimping are actually rated for 75 ohm, 200mhz, I don't know if the Dayton are. This probably isn't a really big deal for an average installation. [B]Canare_TS100_Coax_Stripper[/B] Expensive, about $60-$70. If you only have to make one cable you can do without and just be careful when you cut the cable. You can use the ruler shown in the pics to get an idea on how to make the cuts. [B]SPDIF_AES_Transformer[/B] Not DIY: RCA to BNC to mate with the transformer. [/QUOTE]
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