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diy active- amp help!
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<blockquote data-quote="Babs" data-source="post: 3108258" data-attributes="member: 567066"><p>... The thing I fear about going active. MUST verify your tweeter signals are ONLY sending the intended high freq's.</p><p></p><p>It even made me think of going passive/active... Using biampable components where the crossover allowed separate signals for mids and tweets such as the QSD 216 Quarts (I think).. Still allowing separate time alignment for each driver, but essentially running passive for tweeter safety.</p><p></p><p>Although if a guy checks and double checks and makes sure of his signal, he should be able to run solely active if he dots his i's and crosses his t's competently as to what he's sending to tweeters...</p><p></p><p>I would also imagine or hope head units that'll do active (880, 9887, 7100, etc) would have some sort of safety (hard setting) that keeps them in "network" or "3-way" mode.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Babs, post: 3108258, member: 567066"] ... The thing I fear about going active. MUST verify your tweeter signals are ONLY sending the intended high freq's. It even made me think of going passive/active... Using biampable components where the crossover allowed separate signals for mids and tweets such as the QSD 216 Quarts (I think).. Still allowing separate time alignment for each driver, but essentially running passive for tweeter safety. Although if a guy checks and double checks and makes sure of his signal, he should be able to run solely active if he dots his i's and crosses his t's competently as to what he's sending to tweeters... I would also imagine or hope head units that'll do active (880, 9887, 7100, etc) would have some sort of safety (hard setting) that keeps them in "network" or "3-way" mode. [/QUOTE]
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