Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Miscellaneous Automotive
Car Electronics & Appearance
Car Performance & Repair
damm you saturn!
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Ferendon" data-source="post: 3706989" data-attributes="member: 578259"><p>1. Depending on what you were messing with, you may have dislodged the lock rod from the door latch assembly. Should just slide back into place, but you'll have to remove the door panel. If this is the case, the lock arm probably won't move at all, other than a possible slight twitch, when you hit the switch.</p><p></p><p>2. Check Engine light, just get it scanned. Parking Brake light, check your brake fluid. If that's not it, then the scan should catch the problem.</p><p></p><p>3. Pics possible? And the black side is ground. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p><p></p><p>4. Could be lots of things. Could be the brake shield rubbing the strut assembly, or it could actually be a worn part. Suspensions can squeak for lots of reasons. Basic suspension troubleshooting is easy, but then again, it's only basic. Jack a tire off the ground a couple of inches. Grab the top and bottom of the tire at the same time, and see if it 'teeter-totters'. Repeat this, while holding the sides of the tire. Then grab the bottom of the tire and push and pull back and forth.</p><p></p><p>Play from top to bottom, could be a wheel bearing, or lower control arm/ball joint. Side to side, wheel bearing or tie rods. If it's a wheel bearing it will have play from top to bottom AND side to side. If the bottom of the tire moves in and out, then it could be LCAs/ball joints, strut mount, or tie rod end.</p><p></p><p>top to bottom and side to side = wheel bearing, combination of things</p><p></p><p>just top to bottom = LCA/Ball joint</p><p></p><p>just side to side = tie rod, most likely the outer, but always doubt the inners as well.</p><p></p><p>just in and out = LCAs on the way out, but not shot just yet, or strut mount. If it's a strut mount, it will usually knock loudly when you hit a bump.</p><p></p><p>There's much more to it than that, but with a little common sense, a good look at the suspension set up, and a few wiggles and shakes, suspension problem are usually not too hard to figure out.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ferendon, post: 3706989, member: 578259"] 1. Depending on what you were messing with, you may have dislodged the lock rod from the door latch assembly. Should just slide back into place, but you'll have to remove the door panel. If this is the case, the lock arm probably won't move at all, other than a possible slight twitch, when you hit the switch. 2. Check Engine light, just get it scanned. Parking Brake light, check your brake fluid. If that's not it, then the scan should catch the problem. 3. Pics possible? And the black side is ground. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] 4. Could be lots of things. Could be the brake shield rubbing the strut assembly, or it could actually be a worn part. Suspensions can squeak for lots of reasons. Basic suspension troubleshooting is easy, but then again, it's only basic. Jack a tire off the ground a couple of inches. Grab the top and bottom of the tire at the same time, and see if it 'teeter-totters'. Repeat this, while holding the sides of the tire. Then grab the bottom of the tire and push and pull back and forth. Play from top to bottom, could be a wheel bearing, or lower control arm/ball joint. Side to side, wheel bearing or tie rods. If it's a wheel bearing it will have play from top to bottom AND side to side. If the bottom of the tire moves in and out, then it could be LCAs/ball joints, strut mount, or tie rod end. top to bottom and side to side = wheel bearing, combination of things just top to bottom = LCA/Ball joint just side to side = tie rod, most likely the outer, but always doubt the inners as well. just in and out = LCAs on the way out, but not shot just yet, or strut mount. If it's a strut mount, it will usually knock loudly when you hit a bump. There's much more to it than that, but with a little common sense, a good look at the suspension set up, and a few wiggles and shakes, suspension problem are usually not too hard to figure out. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Miscellaneous Automotive
Car Electronics & Appearance
Car Performance & Repair
damm you saturn!
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list
