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Couple decent questions...
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<blockquote data-quote="geolemon" data-source="post: 314039" data-attributes="member: 547749"><p>These are definitely on the mark, I just wanted to add to them...</p><p></p><p>My first impression was definitely "how do you know the enclosure is the problem [with the 'can't feel the bass' problem]?" myself... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif</p><p></p><p>That's good for vibrating metal.. with a good install...But there's other things potentially that rattle, that might just need a good tightening up, a little careful squeeze of expanding foam, or a good liberal blob of silicone.</p><p></p><p>License plates are great with a little rectangle of carpeting behind them.</p><p></p><p>That's really only if you think the enclosure is off..How is it, tonally, anyway? Pick up a test CD, see how it is.</p><p></p><p>Critically listen with good music... stuff that's a priority to you, the stuff you want to sound good, or slam hard, or whatever. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif</p><p></p><p>IF the enclosure is off, that's one thing to address.</p><p></p><p>But you don't want to change too many variables at once, or you'll never be able to say what fixed what issue...</p><p></p><p>That's one problem with paying someone to do work, also... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif</p><p></p><p>Besides the obvious one, that the system is a creation of someone else, something that someone <em>else</em> out there is proud of (or worse, doesn't give a crap about!), instead of you.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif</p><p></p><p>There are way more reasons than this to remove your rear speakers...</p><p></p><p>But this sure is a good one.</p><p></p><p>Right now, it's analogous to setting up a stereo in your home, and sticking the subwoofer in a locked closet.</p><p></p><p>Removing your rear speakers will allow the airspace of your cabin and the airspace of your trunk to literally be one, the flow of energy, the air pressure fluctuations will be direct.</p><p></p><p>Like taking the door right off the closet. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smokin.gif.f1dc8d2acb1809e863ebd6a47eaa0d45.gif</p><p></p><p>Not to mention, with all those strong pressure fluctuations going on in the trunk, they would absolutely wreak havoc on rear speakers, causing them to distort and bottom out... even if they weren't receiving a signal, or were disconnected! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif</p><p></p><p>Like I said, there are way more reasons, you might appreciate them:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.betteraudio.com/geolemon/Phasing/Phasing.htm" target="_blank">http://www.betteraudio.com/geolemon/Phasing/Phasing.htm</a></p><p></p><p>Or you could build a larger enclosure to compensate for less power.</p><p></p><p>Smaller amounts of power aren't always bad, and they don't always mean "less output", by any means.</p><p></p><p>It takes a 4x increase in power to effect a 2x increase in theoretical output.</p><p></p><p>In reality, it's even less, due to power compression and other inefficiencies in the sub.</p><p></p><p>300 watts should be plenty to drive the sub, unless you do want to squeeze it into a tiny enclosure.</p><p></p><p>The enclosure really drives the efficiency of the sub, so you do want to consider what your priorities are...</p><p></p><p>"getting away" with 300 watts - which will potentially even extend the life of your sub, but require a larger enclosure to reach full output levels...</p><p></p><p>or:</p><p></p><p>"brute forcing" the sub with 600 or more watts - which will be more taxing on the sub, but you'll be able to reach full output levels in a smaller enclosure.</p><p></p><p>Try doing a search on the "Iron law" of loudspeaker design, for more on that. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif</p><p></p><p>You could do all of these changes, but you'll never know which one really helped out, and that would cost you the most money...</p><p></p><p>Something I'm sure you are painfully aware of, if you're shelling cash out to yahoos to do this work for you... I'm sure you don't want to spend more than you need to. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/titanic.gif.8089b7552c370bcc138aa121756d0c0b.gif</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="geolemon, post: 314039, member: 547749"] These are definitely on the mark, I just wanted to add to them... My first impression was definitely "how do you know the enclosure is the problem [with the 'can't feel the bass' problem]?" myself... [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] That's good for vibrating metal.. with a good install...But there's other things potentially that rattle, that might just need a good tightening up, a little careful squeeze of expanding foam, or a good liberal blob of silicone. License plates are great with a little rectangle of carpeting behind them. That's really only if you think the enclosure is off..How is it, tonally, anyway? Pick up a test CD, see how it is. Critically listen with good music... stuff that's a priority to you, the stuff you want to sound good, or slam hard, or whatever. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] IF the enclosure is off, that's one thing to address. But you don't want to change too many variables at once, or you'll never be able to say what fixed what issue... That's one problem with paying someone to do work, also... [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] Besides the obvious one, that the system is a creation of someone else, something that someone [I]else[/I] out there is proud of (or worse, doesn't give a crap about!), instead of you.... [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif[/IMG] There are way more reasons than this to remove your rear speakers... But this sure is a good one. Right now, it's analogous to setting up a stereo in your home, and sticking the subwoofer in a locked closet. Removing your rear speakers will allow the airspace of your cabin and the airspace of your trunk to literally be one, the flow of energy, the air pressure fluctuations will be direct. Like taking the door right off the closet. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smokin.gif.f1dc8d2acb1809e863ebd6a47eaa0d45.gif[/IMG] Not to mention, with all those strong pressure fluctuations going on in the trunk, they would absolutely wreak havoc on rear speakers, causing them to distort and bottom out... even if they weren't receiving a signal, or were disconnected! [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif[/IMG] Like I said, there are way more reasons, you might appreciate them: [URL="http://www.betteraudio.com/geolemon/Phasing/Phasing.htm"]http://www.betteraudio.com/geolemon/Phasing/Phasing.htm[/URL] Or you could build a larger enclosure to compensate for less power. Smaller amounts of power aren't always bad, and they don't always mean "less output", by any means. It takes a 4x increase in power to effect a 2x increase in theoretical output. In reality, it's even less, due to power compression and other inefficiencies in the sub. 300 watts should be plenty to drive the sub, unless you do want to squeeze it into a tiny enclosure. The enclosure really drives the efficiency of the sub, so you do want to consider what your priorities are... "getting away" with 300 watts - which will potentially even extend the life of your sub, but require a larger enclosure to reach full output levels... or: "brute forcing" the sub with 600 or more watts - which will be more taxing on the sub, but you'll be able to reach full output levels in a smaller enclosure. Try doing a search on the "Iron law" of loudspeaker design, for more on that. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif[/IMG] You could do all of these changes, but you'll never know which one really helped out, and that would cost you the most money... Something I'm sure you are painfully aware of, if you're shelling cash out to yahoos to do this work for you... I'm sure you don't want to spend more than you need to. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/titanic.gif.8089b7552c370bcc138aa121756d0c0b.gif[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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