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<blockquote data-quote="Bradmph" data-source="post: 8760370" data-attributes="member: 683833"><p>Sorry for the delay in responding. I go to many car shows and have been very busy Friday, Saturday, weekend.</p><p>Thanks for responding<strong>[USER=681482] Dafaseles[/USER]. </strong>I will take a photo of the hook-up I have now.</p><p>What I think I might have done with the wiring, which might be the reason for heating the amp, is I wired the duel voice on the subs to be 1 Ohm at the Amp. I think wiring to 4 Ohm with the DVC on the speakers and then bridging them onto the Rear amp connectors might help?</p><p>Someone suggested to me that I should dedicate the subs to the Amp and bridge them and then run the front speakers directly to the head unit only and not through the Amp at all. As you said, dedicate subs to the Amp if I can.</p><p>I grabbed your screenshots and will examine them and see what happens when I reconnect the speakers like the diagram<strong>, </strong>first at 4 Ohm. I have another Amp by Planet Audio I think still works here at home also if I wanted to add a second dedicated Amp for front speakers. I had some grounding issue with Amps and was faulting them while powering up the head unit. I corrected the problem by grounding the Amp with a lower gauge wire and much closer to the Amp. This stopped the red light faulting on the Pioneer Amp and it comes right on now.</p><p>I would like to keep the pair of subs installed because the car is an '89 Toyota MR2 and the space is very limited to mounting subs just behind each of the 2 bucket seats, halfway up this rear-engine firewall panel. Having one sub wouldn't mount in the center of the panel because the center consoles on these cars runs up the center of the car and then up this rear firewall panel to the rear window, splitting this rear-engine firewall panel in half. So, each 10-inch sub fits perfectly on both sides of this center console divider nicely behind the driver and passenger seats, in their own boxes.</p><p></p><p>After reading your reply, I am deciding on the 4 Ohm Subs Bridged to channel B as shown in the <u><strong>NEW CONNECTION</strong></u> image. </p><p>Also, instead of robbing any more power from Amp, I can wire the front speakers directly to the front A outputs of the head unit. Perhaps this will also keep the Amp cooler without these 2 additional speakers going to it. </p><p></p><p>You also specified connecting the subs to the Amp not in a series, but separately, just like normal speakers would be. plus to plus, neg to neg to both pos and neg connections on channel B of Amp. I get the idea to still also switch to LPF at 80Hz, setting on the Amp to save my sub speakers from the stress.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Bradmph, post: 8760370, member: 683833"] Sorry for the delay in responding. I go to many car shows and have been very busy Friday, Saturday, weekend. Thanks for responding[B][USER=681482] Dafaseles[/USER]. [/B]I will take a photo of the hook-up I have now. What I think I might have done with the wiring, which might be the reason for heating the amp, is I wired the duel voice on the subs to be 1 Ohm at the Amp. I think wiring to 4 Ohm with the DVC on the speakers and then bridging them onto the Rear amp connectors might help? Someone suggested to me that I should dedicate the subs to the Amp and bridge them and then run the front speakers directly to the head unit only and not through the Amp at all. As you said, dedicate subs to the Amp if I can. I grabbed your screenshots and will examine them and see what happens when I reconnect the speakers like the diagram[B], [/B]first at 4 Ohm. I have another Amp by Planet Audio I think still works here at home also if I wanted to add a second dedicated Amp for front speakers. I had some grounding issue with Amps and was faulting them while powering up the head unit. I corrected the problem by grounding the Amp with a lower gauge wire and much closer to the Amp. This stopped the red light faulting on the Pioneer Amp and it comes right on now. I would like to keep the pair of subs installed because the car is an '89 Toyota MR2 and the space is very limited to mounting subs just behind each of the 2 bucket seats, halfway up this rear-engine firewall panel. Having one sub wouldn't mount in the center of the panel because the center consoles on these cars runs up the center of the car and then up this rear firewall panel to the rear window, splitting this rear-engine firewall panel in half. So, each 10-inch sub fits perfectly on both sides of this center console divider nicely behind the driver and passenger seats, in their own boxes. After reading your reply, I am deciding on the 4 Ohm Subs Bridged to channel B as shown in the [U][B]NEW CONNECTION[/B][/U] image. Also, instead of robbing any more power from Amp, I can wire the front speakers directly to the front A outputs of the head unit. Perhaps this will also keep the Amp cooler without these 2 additional speakers going to it. You also specified connecting the subs to the Amp not in a series, but separately, just like normal speakers would be. plus to plus, neg to neg to both pos and neg connections on channel B of Amp. I get the idea to still also switch to LPF at 80Hz, setting on the Amp to save my sub speakers from the stress. [/QUOTE]
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