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<blockquote data-quote="Prowler573" data-source="post: 948950" data-attributes="member: 561023">It&#039;s highly likely this thread will turn into a flamefest as it&#039;s a capacitor question so...IBTL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gifYou don&#039;t actually need the capacitor at all. If you have charging system issues and need to improve the current output of your vehicle to support the audio equipment you&#039;ll achieve much more positive results by upgrading the &quot;Big 3&quot; wiring underhood and/or upgrading the alternator to a high ouput model (or having your current one rebuilt, whichever is cheaper/easier) For further details regarding the Big 3 do a forum search on exactly that - Big 3 - and then have a read. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifHaving said that: you&#039;re completely wrong.If you&#039;re going to use the capacitor at all:Is the capacitor one of the type that requires charging prior to use? If so did you get the charging card/bulb for it? Not all caps require pre-charging but most do. If the one you have requires it simply hooking it up to 12v power and ground will ruin it.Whether or not it requires charging as far as hookup is concerned you&#039;ll run positive feed from the battery to the positive terminal of the cap. Another power cable will be connected to the positive terminal to be connected to the power input of whatever amp(s) the capacitor is intended to assist. Common theory is 1 farad of capacitance per 1000 watts of continuous amp output.The negative terminal of the cap should be connected to chassis ground, just like any other piece of audio gear. It&#039;s not for any amp to be hooked to.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Prowler573, post: 948950, member: 561023"] It's highly likely this thread will turn into a flamefest as it's a capacitor question so... IBTL [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif[/IMG] You don't actually need the capacitor at all. If you have charging system issues and need to improve the current output of your vehicle to support the audio equipment you'll achieve much more positive results by upgrading the "Big 3" wiring underhood and/or upgrading the alternator to a high ouput model (or having your current one rebuilt, whichever is cheaper/easier) For further details regarding the Big 3 do a forum search on exactly that - Big 3 - and then have a read. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] Having said that: you're completely wrong. If you're going to use the capacitor at all: Is the capacitor one of the type that requires charging prior to use? If so did you get the charging card/bulb for it? Not all caps require pre-charging but most do. If the one you have requires it simply hooking it up to 12v power and ground will ruin it. Whether or not it requires charging as far as hookup is concerned you'll run positive feed from the battery to the positive terminal of the cap. Another power cable will be connected to the positive terminal to be connected to the power input of whatever amp(s) the capacitor is intended to assist. Common theory is 1 farad of capacitance per 1000 watts of continuous amp output. The negative terminal of the cap should be connected to chassis ground, just like any other piece of audio gear. It's not for any amp to be hooked to. [/QUOTE]

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