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Class AB vs D
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<blockquote data-quote="FoxPro5" data-source="post: 5040669" data-attributes="member: 562649"><p>I assume you'll be testing this on a radiating driver that's at best 2% efficient and has harmonic distortion well above that of the amplifier? Not to mention, being filtered itself.</p><p></p><p>If you get that warm fuzz feeling by putting Class A/B on your fronts and D on your subs, then keep it up and ignore everything you've read. It doesn't matter. If you honestly think your ears are good enough to tell what amp topology SHOULD sound like, then you need get a job at the CIA because you'd be one hell of a spy or something.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="FoxPro5, post: 5040669, member: 562649"] I assume you'll be testing this on a radiating driver that's at best 2% efficient and has harmonic distortion well above that of the amplifier? Not to mention, being filtered itself. If you get that warm fuzz feeling by putting Class A/B on your fronts and D on your subs, then keep it up and ignore everything you've read. It doesn't matter. If you honestly think your ears are good enough to tell what amp topology SHOULD sound like, then you need get a job at the CIA because you'd be one hell of a spy or something. [/QUOTE]
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