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Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???
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<blockquote data-quote="ThxOne" data-source="post: 8646992" data-attributes="member: 675210"><p>I re-read your post... your statement is physically and electrically impossible. The flow of electrons is going to follow the path of least resistance... even if the cap blew up, as long as the cable coming from the battery is still connected to the cable going to the amp with no break, electrons are still going to flow. The cap cannot impede the flow of electricity if the connections are correct. It fills up with electricity as fast as you can blink your eyes and stores it like a battery, only faster. Once its full, it will chill there until a demand for that stored energy is needed... like a battery, only faster. Then, since it is faster... and closer to the amp, the electrons will flow from the CAP to the amp... mind you, current is still coming from the battery and flowing over the SAME cable, though now, it doesn't have to drain from the battery so the alternator doesn't have to divert electricity from running the vehicle to replenish that battery. Why? Because the cap took care of it. Now if you are running a bunch of subs and 10's of thousands of watts of power then you are right... a 1,2 or even a 10 farad cap will do nothing for you. Also, it is fine to set your gains with a DMM... the output terminals on the amp produce A/C current. At a given frequency that A/C current has a specific voltage that can be measured. If it can be reproduced and measured then it can be used to set your gains. Is it dead on balls accurate, no, but it can be VERY close. Close is good enough because that voltage is going to change with music... even if set professionally, which I hate to tell you, I have seen done with DMM.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ThxOne, post: 8646992, member: 675210"] I re-read your post... your statement is physically and electrically impossible. The flow of electrons is going to follow the path of least resistance... even if the cap blew up, as long as the cable coming from the battery is still connected to the cable going to the amp with no break, electrons are still going to flow. The cap cannot impede the flow of electricity if the connections are correct. It fills up with electricity as fast as you can blink your eyes and stores it like a battery, only faster. Once its full, it will chill there until a demand for that stored energy is needed... like a battery, only faster. Then, since it is faster... and closer to the amp, the electrons will flow from the CAP to the amp... mind you, current is still coming from the battery and flowing over the SAME cable, though now, it doesn't have to drain from the battery so the alternator doesn't have to divert electricity from running the vehicle to replenish that battery. Why? Because the cap took care of it. Now if you are running a bunch of subs and 10's of thousands of watts of power then you are right... a 1,2 or even a 10 farad cap will do nothing for you. Also, it is fine to set your gains with a DMM... the output terminals on the amp produce A/C current. At a given frequency that A/C current has a specific voltage that can be measured. If it can be reproduced and measured then it can be used to set your gains. Is it dead on balls accurate, no, but it can be VERY close. Close is good enough because that voltage is going to change with music... even if set professionally, which I hate to tell you, I have seen done with DMM. [/QUOTE]
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Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???
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