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Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8646988" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>Something is seriously wrong with your electrical setup if you are dropping to 10-11 volts with a 150 amp alt on that small of a sound system setup. I'd legit get that alt tested, check your pulley system because my buddy with a stock 150 amp jeep alt is running a 2600 rms sub amp, two 100 x 4 amps with one of them bridged and dropping only to 13.2, all he has is a 2ndary battery. Even before the battery upgrade, the lowest he dropped was 12.6 volts.</p><p></p><p>With the cap, You are taking voltages at the battery. You need to take voltages at the amplifier. Good chance that your amps are seeing a much lower voltage than the battery due to the cap restricting power flow to the amp.</p><p></p><p>The only cap that works is a maxwell super cap and you need 6 of those in a bank over 3500 farads and you need a beefy alternator. Otherwise these traditional caps are literally worthless for car audio. You would have been 1000x better off with a 12v lawnmower battery instead which costs the same price but actually stores a lot of power.</p><p></p><p>You also NEVER use a multi-meter to set gains for mids and highs. Dont fall into the noob trap where people who have no understanding about the correlation of how recording levels in music affect head unit pre-out which affects amplifier output and those idiots make blind recommendations to use a multi-meter to set gains trying to play it off as a legit professional way of setting gains... Absolutely retarded.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8646988, member: 650438"] Something is seriously wrong with your electrical setup if you are dropping to 10-11 volts with a 150 amp alt on that small of a sound system setup. I'd legit get that alt tested, check your pulley system because my buddy with a stock 150 amp jeep alt is running a 2600 rms sub amp, two 100 x 4 amps with one of them bridged and dropping only to 13.2, all he has is a 2ndary battery. Even before the battery upgrade, the lowest he dropped was 12.6 volts. With the cap, You are taking voltages at the battery. You need to take voltages at the amplifier. Good chance that your amps are seeing a much lower voltage than the battery due to the cap restricting power flow to the amp. The only cap that works is a maxwell super cap and you need 6 of those in a bank over 3500 farads and you need a beefy alternator. Otherwise these traditional caps are literally worthless for car audio. You would have been 1000x better off with a 12v lawnmower battery instead which costs the same price but actually stores a lot of power. You also NEVER use a multi-meter to set gains for mids and highs. Dont fall into the noob trap where people who have no understanding about the correlation of how recording levels in music affect head unit pre-out which affects amplifier output and those idiots make blind recommendations to use a multi-meter to set gains trying to play it off as a legit professional way of setting gains... Absolutely retarded. [/QUOTE]
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Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???
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