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clarion apa450
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<blockquote data-quote="soccrstar" data-source="post: 794237" data-attributes="member: 556859"><p>OK I got a Dilema (howeva you spell it)</p><p></p><p>I saw this Clarion Amp that i really liked and its rated at 50W RMS x 4. when i was @ tweeter it really boosted the quality of the output in the speakers it was amplifing and with the resent addition of 2x 10" 10W08 subs i'm in need of interior amplifying.</p><p></p><p>(just spoke to tweeter guy and its clarion ApA450)</p><p></p><p>my speakers, etc are in sig. all 4 are rated @ 120w RMS.</p><p></p><p>my DA D661S came with a cross-over and has a RAF port (rear fill) so that i could connect rear speakers to the cross-over and it'll make it like a rear fill by like lowering the Db of it or something.</p><p></p><p>If i connect my interior system like that I can bridge the amp to 2-channels for ~100w RMS x 2 and i will be having 2 mid-bass n 2 tweets to power per channel and according to diamond audio i believe 20% of max power is sent to RAF to power speakers connected to this port. so 20W RMS to rear and 80W to front stage</p><p></p><p>or i can wire it 4 channel @ 50w RMS x 4 and power all 4 and let my Pioneer P8MP do the x-oving and adjust everything from there?....</p><p></p><p>what do you people think would be best to do?</p><p></p><p>this last addition along with a Cap and the Big 3 upgrades will finish my interior audio setup.</p><p></p><p>P.S.</p><p></p><p>heres the voltage drops i got using multimeter with current amp rated @ 250w RMS x 1 about ~125w RMS between the 2 subs.</p><p></p><p>12.7V - car sat over night, nothing on.</p><p></p><p>12.5V - corner lights, fogs On</p><p></p><p>11.3V - Turn Car ON</p><p></p><p>14.4V - Engine Running</p><p></p><p>14.43V - Idle Rev to 4500RM</p><p></p><p>14.3V - fogs, corner - On (.1V Drop)</p><p></p><p>14.3V - Blower, (heat on high) (.1V drop)</p><p></p><p>14.35V - Idle after blower On</p><p></p><p>14.28V radio On</p><p></p><p>14.23V - Radio Volume @ 10 (keep in mine amp &amp; sub are ON)</p><p></p><p>14.20V - Radio Volume @ 15</p><p></p><p>14.15V - Radio Volume @ 20</p><p></p><p>14.10V - Radio Volume @ 25</p><p></p><p>13.95V - Radio Volume @ 30</p><p></p><p>13.82V - Radio Volume @ 35</p><p></p><p>13.71V - Radio Volume @ 40</p><p></p><p>13.22V - Radio Volume @ 45</p><p></p><p>13.16V - Radio Volume @ 50</p><p></p><p>with volume at 50 and i turn corner lights/fogs ON voltage actually goes up to 13.23V maby alternator realizes extra load and pumps out more? I do not know, i dont think consider its a '1995 vehicle dont think that tech existed back than...</p><p></p><p>when i turn on my xenon HID lights on</p><p></p><p>i get NO BASS at all, voltage remains at 13.23V</p><p></p><p>after 1 1/5 seconds bass comes back.</p><p></p><p>when i shut car off 13.5V is read</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="soccrstar, post: 794237, member: 556859"] OK I got a Dilema (howeva you spell it) I saw this Clarion Amp that i really liked and its rated at 50W RMS x 4. when i was @ tweeter it really boosted the quality of the output in the speakers it was amplifing and with the resent addition of 2x 10" 10W08 subs i'm in need of interior amplifying. (just spoke to tweeter guy and its clarion ApA450) my speakers, etc are in sig. all 4 are rated @ 120w RMS. my DA D661S came with a cross-over and has a RAF port (rear fill) so that i could connect rear speakers to the cross-over and it'll make it like a rear fill by like lowering the Db of it or something. If i connect my interior system like that I can bridge the amp to 2-channels for ~100w RMS x 2 and i will be having 2 mid-bass n 2 tweets to power per channel and according to diamond audio i believe 20% of max power is sent to RAF to power speakers connected to this port. so 20W RMS to rear and 80W to front stage or i can wire it 4 channel @ 50w RMS x 4 and power all 4 and let my Pioneer P8MP do the x-oving and adjust everything from there?.... what do you people think would be best to do? this last addition along with a Cap and the Big 3 upgrades will finish my interior audio setup. P.S. heres the voltage drops i got using multimeter with current amp rated @ 250w RMS x 1 about ~125w RMS between the 2 subs. 12.7V - car sat over night, nothing on. 12.5V - corner lights, fogs On 11.3V - Turn Car ON 14.4V - Engine Running 14.43V - Idle Rev to 4500RM 14.3V - fogs, corner - On (.1V Drop) 14.3V - Blower, (heat on high) (.1V drop) 14.35V - Idle after blower On 14.28V radio On 14.23V - Radio Volume @ 10 (keep in mine amp & sub are ON) 14.20V - Radio Volume @ 15 14.15V - Radio Volume @ 20 14.10V - Radio Volume @ 25 13.95V - Radio Volume @ 30 13.82V - Radio Volume @ 35 13.71V - Radio Volume @ 40 13.22V - Radio Volume @ 45 13.16V - Radio Volume @ 50 with volume at 50 and i turn corner lights/fogs ON voltage actually goes up to 13.23V maby alternator realizes extra load and pumps out more? I do not know, i dont think consider its a '1995 vehicle dont think that tech existed back than... when i turn on my xenon HID lights on i get NO BASS at all, voltage remains at 13.23V after 1 1/5 seconds bass comes back. when i shut car off 13.5V is read [/QUOTE]
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