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<blockquote data-quote="2010HHRUMADBRUH" data-source="post: 8014475" data-attributes="member: 606055">Everyone who has bought one for $3 and has used it knows. The answer is: just as long as the chinese made stinger volt meters that use the same internal parts, but have a HUGE outer casing with the stinger logo. It&#039;s not a stinger volt meter. It&#039;s the same volt meter you get for $3 with a huge frame and logo attached.Not knowing about these $3 meters is fine. But knowing about them, not shelling out about as much change that is probably sitting in a desk or in between your seats on one of them to try it out is just foolish.I realize most people are a rep for certain companies on car audio forums and likely sell the product themselves.That would be fine if the stinger ones had an accuracy rating or response time listed. But they don&#039;t, and the $3 ones DO. If you had the same meter, except one was stinger brand with no specs, and one showed the specs but no brand logo, which would you choose? Keep in mind the stinger meter could have 500ms -1s response time and be 90% accurate while the non brand meter is 200ms and 99.9% accurate.For $50 you can buy 10 of the bigger chinese ones with the case, sell each for $10-$20 on CL or to friends and make a huge profit. And then watch them install them cleanly without some lame *** huge casing with a &quot;STINGER&quot; logo written on it.Are you saying there will be a different voltage if the meter is on the battery in the front vs the amp in the back? How big are your power wires going to the meter? I bought some 16awg copper power wire for the neg and pos runs. And they are the ones with the less strands but the strands are bigger. I get the same reading from my fluke meter.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="2010HHRUMADBRUH, post: 8014475, member: 606055"] Everyone who has bought one for $3 and has used it knows. The answer is: just as long as the chinese made stinger volt meters that use the same internal parts, but have a HUGE outer casing with the stinger logo. It's not a stinger volt meter. It's the same volt meter you get for $3 with a huge frame and logo attached. Not knowing about these $3 meters is fine. But knowing about them, not shelling out about as much change that is probably sitting in a desk or in between your seats on one of them to try it out is just foolish. I realize most people are a rep for certain companies on car audio forums and likely sell the product themselves. That would be fine if the stinger ones had an accuracy rating or response time listed. But they don't, and the $3 ones DO. If you had the same meter, except one was stinger brand with no specs, and one showed the specs but no brand logo, which would you choose? Keep in mind the stinger meter could have 500ms -1s response time and be 90% accurate while the non brand meter is 200ms and 99.9% accurate. For $50 you can buy 10 of the bigger chinese ones with the case, sell each for $10-$20 on CL or to friends and make a huge profit. And then watch them install them cleanly without some lame *** huge casing with a "STINGER" logo written on it. Are you saying there will be a different voltage if the meter is on the battery in the front vs the amp in the back? How big are your power wires going to the meter? I bought some 16awg copper power wire for the neg and pos runs. And they are the ones with the less strands but the strands are bigger. I get the same reading from my fluke meter. [/QUOTE]

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