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<blockquote data-quote="geolemon" data-source="post: 341006" data-attributes="member: 547749">You&#039;ll have to describe your problems, and possibly monitor your voltage.Headlight dimming, by itself, after all, isn&#039;t a problem at all.&nbsp; //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gifIt simply happens when all electrical demands in your car have exceeded your alternator&#039;s total current capability, at whatever RPM your engine is currently operating at.&nbsp; This isn&#039;t harmful, the battery will simply supply whatever excess current is required... generally, this isn&#039;t a large amount of current, and the battery charges it back up in an equal amount of time.When this happens though, in order for the battery to supply that small amount of current, the car&#039;s voltage level will need to drop from the 14.4v of the alternator to the 12v of the battery.Simply put... light bulbs are brighter on 14.4v than they are on 12v.Replacing your 12v battery with another 12v battery won&#039;t change a thing.. because your headlights will still be just as dim on that 12v.. regardless of what battery is supplying it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gifThere is the transitional period to consider... that instant in time where the voltage does initially drop, and the battery is instantaniously called upon to provide the current being demanded!If you had a &quot;slow&quot; battery (such as a deep-cycle battery - it&#039;s thicker plates that allow it&#039;s &quot;deep cycle&quot; abuse also hinder it&#039;s performance), you might actually see your lights seem to dim a bit easier, or more even.A faster battery (plain-old standard battery) is faster.Augmenting your electrical system with a capacitor (either up front by the battery, to augment current demands at those transition times, or directly at the device creating the large demands - such as your amplifier) will in the very same way augment this.It won&#039;t stop the dimming, but it can help, as the cap will charge to nearly 14v levels, and will discharge during those transients from 14v down to the 12v level of the battery - and by that time, the battery is supplying current on it&#039;s own.&nbsp; //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif</blockquote>

[QUOTE="geolemon, post: 341006, member: 547749"] You'll have to describe your problems, and possibly monitor your voltage. Headlight dimming, by itself, after all, isn't a problem at all. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] It simply happens when all electrical demands in your car have exceeded your alternator's total current capability, at whatever RPM your engine is currently operating at. This isn't harmful, the battery will simply supply whatever excess current is required... generally, this isn't a large amount of current, and the battery charges it back up in an equal amount of time. When this happens though, in order for the battery to supply that small amount of current, the car's voltage level will need to drop from the 14.4v of the alternator to the 12v of the battery. Simply put... light bulbs are brighter on 14.4v than they are on 12v. Replacing your 12v battery with another 12v battery won't change a thing.. because your headlights will still be just as dim on that 12v.. regardless of what battery is supplying it. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif[/IMG] There is the transitional period to consider... that instant in time where the voltage does initially drop, and the battery is instantaniously called upon to provide the current being demanded! If you had a "slow" battery (such as a deep-cycle battery - it's thicker plates that allow it's "deep cycle" abuse also hinder it's performance), you might actually see your lights seem to dim a bit easier, or more even. A faster battery (plain-old standard battery) is faster. Augmenting your electrical system with a capacitor (either up front by the battery, to augment current demands at those transition times, or directly at the device creating the large demands - such as your amplifier) will in the very same way augment this. It won't [I]stop[/I] the dimming, but it can help, as the cap will charge to nearly 14v levels, and will discharge during those transients from 14v down to the 12v level of the battery - and by that time, the battery is supplying current on it's own. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif[/IMG] [/QUOTE]

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