Reply to thread

Message: <blockquote data-quote="anwaypasible" data-source="post: 7090543" data-attributes="member: 627657">i think this debate is often called upon by people who are willing to let other people speak.you dont need a large article about the use of capacitors.. and i will show you why below:first you start up your car and let the capacitor fill up **this event has a name and a value.. making some caps better than others**then you turn on your radio as you drive down the road.. (does the amp feed from the capacitor or does it feed from the alternator.. or both?)**this event/threshold has a name and a value.. making some caps better than others**lets just say for example that the amp is pulling from the alternator as you drive down the road.. the cap is just sitting there all filled up.then you come to a stop light and the alternator starts to spin much much slower because your engine is idling and the belt that spins the alternator isnt moving as fast.when this happens, the alternator puts out less electricity.so the amp ***** up all the electricity that the alternator is putting out and requires more.. this is where your capacitor kicks-in and provides electricity.how long will the cap provide electricity and how much electricity?** these events have a name and a value.. making some caps better than others**if the light turns green before your capacitor gets low on stored energy, then the alternator will start to spin faster as you start driving forward.and this is a perfect time to explain one reason why your alternator needs to be large.once you have pressed the gas, the belt that spins the alternator moves faster, and the alternator starts putting out more electricity.the amp starts ******* electricity from the alternator again and the capacitor recharges itself with whatever electricity is left.**this event/threshold has a name and a value.. making some caps better than others**an ideal cap would wait patiently to get recharged and also not require lots of electricity to recharge itself.because a cap that isnt ideal would **** really hard on the electricity wire and the alternator will suffer from abuse with the amp ******* hard and the capacitor ******* hard at the same time.its like having a huge amp on a stock alternator.. the amp is going to **** on the alternator until the alternator fails.if you have a decent size stock alternator.. and your capacitor waits patiently to be recharged.. and your amplifier isnt drawing more electricity than what the alternator can provide (above engine idle) then it's safe to say that your stock alternator isnt going to fail or suffer from abuse.. and you have added a patch to your electrical system that will keep the voltage from dropping while the engine is at idle (that is, until the cap goes dead)there is no sense with reading those large articles about the results they received when testing their capacitor, because there is no evidence that the capacitor was an ideal capacitor.the people who wrote the article might have chosen a piece of junk that has all the wrong values for providing voltage at the stop light and slowly recharging after the light turns green.some caps will wait for the voltage to reach 13v or 12v before it starts to release its stored electricity **again, this event has a name and a value.. making some caps better than others**these caps will show voltage bouncing around because the cap is waiting.some caps will not wait for the voltage to reach 13v or 12v.. probably because they are designed to start giving out electricity at a higher voltage.. 13.5v or 14vand these caps will keep the voltage readout 'stiff' and free from fluctuations as long as the capacitor has energy stored.how do you know if your capacitor is junk?if you come to a stop and the lights continue to dim, there is something wrong with the way your capacitor is designed.. try a different brand name or model number.dont worry too much about the voltage readout bouncing around a little bit, as long as the lights arent dimming, there isnt a solid problem.the lights are the key piece of evidence you should use to ensure that your amplifier is getting electricity through a thick straw rather than a little one.i am sorry.. i do not know the names of each event, nor do i know what the ideal values are.but understand that not all capacitors are made equal.. some offer the same 1 farad value, but perform differently for reasons and examples mentioned above.***edit***also understand that there are lots of amplifiers that can run on a stock alternator when the engine IS NOT idling.. which is like 1,000rpm's or higher.so if your RPM's are 1,000rpm or higher.. the stock alternator can give 100amps or whatever the rating is.at idle.. the amount of amperage goes way down and your amplifier gets thirsty.so people suggest that you upgrade your alternator BECAUSE the bigger alternator will put out more electricity when the engine is idling.the key word here is 'when the engine is idling'you probably wont use up all of the electricity from a bigger alternator when the engine is at 1,000rpm's or higher.what you are craving is the power at engine idle.a capacitor can provide that power at engine idle.. but if your system is too big, you are going to need larger amounts of stored energy.. and that means more recharge when the light turns green.so it is best to keep your amplifier from getting thirsty.. and whatever electricity is left-over can recharge the caps.</blockquote>

Verification

Top

What's new

Forum list