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<blockquote data-quote="BerniniCaCO3" data-source="post: 7478367" data-attributes="member: 636434">Chemmins, reread what I&#039;d written before you&#039;re so quick to call me an idiot.&nbsp; 2k ON THE ALTERNATOR.&nbsp; 6&quot; crankshaft pulley.&nbsp; 2&quot; alternator pulley.&nbsp; 700rpm @crank =2100rpm @alt =&amp;gt;80amps.Thanks audioholic; I might be returning this one then.Not much could be wrong: charge it with a battery and resistor in series, check voltage with a quality (high-resistance) voltmeter.My bigger issue is that it&#039;s a nonstock setup, crudely implemented.In the original car that this fan was designed for, the engine computer ran the fan, which presumably, though I don&#039;t have inside knowledge of the programming, would enable the designers to slow the spooling of the fan with triodes/diodes/variable resistance of some sort so it didn&#039;t draw as much on startup; or simultaneously also bump the engine rpms before triggering the fan.&nbsp; So you don&#039;t ever hear of a car which was designed with an electric fan matched to it, stalling out just because the fan turned on <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile&nbsp; &nbsp; :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />But rather than even attempt to reprogram the computer or somehow hook up a mark viii&#039;s ecu just to run my fan, which would rely on several sensors I don&#039;t have for it, much easier to put in a capacitor....I did have a chat with a local audio shop this evening.&nbsp; He said that every capacitor he&#039;s ever sold or installed, does seem to drain itself very quickly even wholly unhooked.I don&#039;t think a textbook capacitor should ever do this.Is it possible these capacitors are being designed with some deliberate safety circuit in mind, to keep from holding a charge while stored off the vehicle, and/or to keep from running the car when some idiot --not knowing there&#039;s a capacitor in the trunk-- unhooks the battery and thinks he&#039;s safe to go swapping the starter motor and blows the capacitor when he shorts the positive to ground?</blockquote>

[QUOTE="BerniniCaCO3, post: 7478367, member: 636434"] Chemmins, reread what I'd written before you're so quick to call me an idiot. 2k ON THE ALTERNATOR. 6" crankshaft pulley. 2" alternator pulley. 700rpm @crank =2100rpm @alt =>80amps. Thanks audioholic; I might be returning this one then. Not much could be wrong: charge it with a battery and resistor in series, check voltage with a quality (high-resistance) voltmeter. My bigger issue is that it's a nonstock setup, crudely implemented. In the original car that this fan was designed for, the engine computer ran the fan, which presumably, though I don't have inside knowledge of the programming, would enable the designers to slow the spooling of the fan with triodes/diodes/variable resistance of some sort so it didn't draw as much on startup; or simultaneously also bump the engine rpms before triggering the fan. So you don't ever hear of a car which was designed with an electric fan matched to it, stalling out just because the fan turned on :-) But rather than even attempt to reprogram the computer or somehow hook up a mark viii's ecu just to run my fan, which would rely on several sensors I don't have for it, much easier to put in a capacitor.... I did have a chat with a local audio shop this evening. He said that every capacitor he's ever sold or installed, does seem to drain itself very quickly even wholly unhooked. I don't think a textbook capacitor should ever do this. Is it possible these capacitors are being designed with some deliberate safety circuit in mind, to keep from holding a charge while stored off the vehicle, and/or to keep from running the car when some idiot --not knowing there's a capacitor in the trunk-- unhooks the battery and thinks he's safe to go swapping the starter motor and blows the capacitor when he shorts the positive to ground? [/QUOTE]

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