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capacitor help-- supposed to discharge itself?!?
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<blockquote data-quote="BerniniCaCO3" data-source="post: 7477399" data-attributes="member: 636434"><p>Should it discharge even without any draw on it?</p><p></p><p>I thought it would act like a battery, hold charge if there's no load-- even if it's not quite the deep ocean of amp-hours that a battery is.</p><p></p><p>It was a line item at the end of my previous post, but I should maybe explain how I'm using it more and you can tell me if it'll work or if it's the wrong fix.</p><p></p><p>Rather than powering bass notes, I'm trying to power an electric cooling fan mounted on the radiator, which I wired up last week to replace my ailing clutch fan.</p><p></p><p>This fan draws 30amps continuous at full draw. I upgraded the alternator to a 130amp alternator that keeps up just fine with all the lights and everything once the fan is up and running.</p><p></p><p>However, the fan has a cold/unloaded resistance of .2ohms, so the instant draw on startup is a theoretical 70amps.</p><p></p><p>At any rate, when stuck in traffic, idling in drive at 700rpm idle speed, and the engine temperature climbs to where the fan turns on... even that upgraded alternator full-fields and causes a serious stumble for the engine, if not stalling it dead outright. I don't even get to lights-dimming point; it's not that the alternator can't keep up with the power demands, the engine can't keep up with the alternator at idle speeds when a huge amperage surge is just dumped on it. The engine's computer can't compensate with higher rpms fast enough to avoid stalling. If the fan had come stock with hte car, presumably the engine computer would be part of the system, and automatically bump the idle BEFORE the fan kicks on. But my ecu has no clue about what my aftermarket fan is going to do, so it's purely responsive; and it can't handle the surprise load.</p><p></p><p>Now, my single battery is the largest that fits, with a large cca rating of 1040amps, and obviously it can put out the 200amps needed to run my older-styled starter. So the battery shouldn't have any problem supplying 70amps to the fan.</p><p></p><p>What I was told however is that since the battery is at 12.5V, and the system voltage is at 14V, the draw will come from the alternator, as the highest voltage thing in town. So adding more batteries might not help me, if the power surge is still going to come from the alternator? And the alternator's load will still spike? And the engine will still stall?</p><p></p><p>So what I really need is a 14V battery-- or a capacitor, right in front of the fan, sitting at the line voltage of 14V, so that when that fan kicks up all of a sudden, the amperage rush will come from it and not from the alternator? It only needs to save the alternator for that second of peak draw when the fan first kicks, after that the system is stable.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BerniniCaCO3, post: 7477399, member: 636434"] Should it discharge even without any draw on it? I thought it would act like a battery, hold charge if there's no load-- even if it's not quite the deep ocean of amp-hours that a battery is. It was a line item at the end of my previous post, but I should maybe explain how I'm using it more and you can tell me if it'll work or if it's the wrong fix. Rather than powering bass notes, I'm trying to power an electric cooling fan mounted on the radiator, which I wired up last week to replace my ailing clutch fan. This fan draws 30amps continuous at full draw. I upgraded the alternator to a 130amp alternator that keeps up just fine with all the lights and everything once the fan is up and running. However, the fan has a cold/unloaded resistance of .2ohms, so the instant draw on startup is a theoretical 70amps. At any rate, when stuck in traffic, idling in drive at 700rpm idle speed, and the engine temperature climbs to where the fan turns on... even that upgraded alternator full-fields and causes a serious stumble for the engine, if not stalling it dead outright. I don't even get to lights-dimming point; it's not that the alternator can't keep up with the power demands, the engine can't keep up with the alternator at idle speeds when a huge amperage surge is just dumped on it. The engine's computer can't compensate with higher rpms fast enough to avoid stalling. If the fan had come stock with hte car, presumably the engine computer would be part of the system, and automatically bump the idle BEFORE the fan kicks on. But my ecu has no clue about what my aftermarket fan is going to do, so it's purely responsive; and it can't handle the surprise load. Now, my single battery is the largest that fits, with a large cca rating of 1040amps, and obviously it can put out the 200amps needed to run my older-styled starter. So the battery shouldn't have any problem supplying 70amps to the fan. What I was told however is that since the battery is at 12.5V, and the system voltage is at 14V, the draw will come from the alternator, as the highest voltage thing in town. So adding more batteries might not help me, if the power surge is still going to come from the alternator? And the alternator's load will still spike? And the engine will still stall? So what I really need is a 14V battery-- or a capacitor, right in front of the fan, sitting at the line voltage of 14V, so that when that fan kicks up all of a sudden, the amperage rush will come from it and not from the alternator? It only needs to save the alternator for that second of peak draw when the fan first kicks, after that the system is stable. [/QUOTE]
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capacitor help-- supposed to discharge itself?!?
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