Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Capacitor and fuses
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="maylar" data-source="post: 145890" data-attributes="member: 541144"><p>Fuse, fuseholder, terminals, crimps... all have restance. As jlaine has been trying to get across, even milliohms of resistance defeats the purpose of using a cap.</p><p>A 1000 watt system with a 60 amp fuse could easily hit 200 amp peaks for short transients. During that time the voltage at the amp's terminals drops by (200 X R) volts. Just 25 milliohms of total resistance relates to 5 volts drop at that current.</p><p></p><p>A capacitor is supposed to help compensate for voltage drop in the feed wiring and alternator when the amp hits those high current peaks, by providing a localized source capable of supplying huge currents for short periods. If the wiring between the cap and amp has even ~milliohms~ of resistance, you'll lose the effectiveness of its ability to keep the amps terminal voltage up.</p><p></p><p>Wiring should be fused at the battery end. Period. If the load shorts out, the main fuse will blow. The cap will discharge... like it was designed to do.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="maylar, post: 145890, member: 541144"] Fuse, fuseholder, terminals, crimps... all have restance. As jlaine has been trying to get across, even milliohms of resistance defeats the purpose of using a cap. A 1000 watt system with a 60 amp fuse could easily hit 200 amp peaks for short transients. During that time the voltage at the amp's terminals drops by (200 X R) volts. Just 25 milliohms of total resistance relates to 5 volts drop at that current. A capacitor is supposed to help compensate for voltage drop in the feed wiring and alternator when the amp hits those high current peaks, by providing a localized source capable of supplying huge currents for short periods. If the wiring between the cap and amp has even ~milliohms~ of resistance, you'll lose the effectiveness of its ability to keep the amps terminal voltage up. Wiring should be fused at the battery end. Period. If the load shorts out, the main fuse will blow. The cap will discharge... like it was designed to do. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Capacitor and fuses
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list