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<blockquote data-quote="Lasherž" data-source="post: 8703752" data-attributes="member: 679555">Yeah 500 rpm under idle load sounds like classic airflow control issues. There&#039;s three parts that control that, the most commonly failing one I already mentioned is the IACV, but the air bypass channel opening could have crud in it as well. The third part will trigger a check engine light in most cases. With a cheap OBDII bluetooth module you can watch airflow problems graphed out on your phone (using the torque lite app). The voltages you mention seem okay, it&#039;s unlikely to be the battery or an alternator regulator. Also the fact that the AC compressor is doing the same thing pretty much guarantees it&#039;s a vehicle problem. If you&#039;re not comfortable disassembling and using brake cleaner on the air intake parts (spraying into the intake won&#039;t work), particularly the bypass then it&#039;s best to visit a garage and ask for an air induction cleaning or throttle body cleaning. It&#039;s mostly the cost of labor 1-2 hours, but there&#039;s always the possibility that the part will need replaced if it&#039;s the IACV -- not all of them are salvageable.Your system obviously affects your car&#039;s electrical, but I highly doubt your issues are caused by that. As I said earlier, a stock alternator won&#039;t drag on an engine as badly as an AC compressor, so in terms of engine idling it should be behaving as normal right now with or without the system. You can tell in my car for example when the AC kicks in, but it doesn&#039;t drop half the RPM, just a little bit of shaking and the RPM goes from 1k to 1.2k, barely a 50 rpm drop on the needle before it recovers.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Lasherž, post: 8703752, member: 679555"] Yeah 500 rpm under idle load sounds like classic airflow control issues. There's three parts that control that, the most commonly failing one I already mentioned is the IACV, but the air bypass channel opening could have crud in it as well. The third part will trigger a check engine light in most cases. With a cheap OBDII bluetooth module you can watch airflow problems graphed out on your phone (using the torque lite app). The voltages you mention seem okay, it's unlikely to be the battery or an alternator regulator. Also the fact that the AC compressor is doing the same thing pretty much guarantees it's a vehicle problem. If you're not comfortable disassembling and using brake cleaner on the air intake parts (spraying into the intake won't work), particularly the bypass then it's best to visit a garage and ask for an air induction cleaning or throttle body cleaning. It's mostly the cost of labor 1-2 hours, but there's always the possibility that the part will need replaced if it's the IACV -- not all of them are salvageable. Your system obviously affects your car's electrical, but I highly doubt your issues are caused by that. As I said earlier, a stock alternator won't drag on an engine as badly as an AC compressor, so in terms of engine idling it should be behaving as normal right now with or without the system. You can tell in my car for example when the AC kicks in, but it doesn't drop half the RPM, just a little bit of shaking and the RPM goes from 1k to 1.2k, barely a 50 rpm drop on the needle before it recovers. [/QUOTE]

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