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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Cap or additional batt or ho alternator?
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<blockquote data-quote="Lasherž" data-source="post: 8703734" data-attributes="member: 679555"><p>From what I can find online it looks like you've got either a 175A Alternator (base model) or 200A Alternator (XLT) OEM. Honestly both of those seem powerful enough to handle that demand without killing your RPMs. I know that vehicles with higher output OEM alternators also have increased demand, but not that much. I currently have a 110A alternator OEM and a 1200W RMS Rockford Fosgate amp. Even at clipping my lights barely dim and my RPM is able to stay steady idle or at speed. My engine is also likely smaller than yours, a 2.4L I-4 or at least puts out less horsepower if you have a turbo. I don't think this is related to the subwoofers as much as it's just highlighting an issue with your electrical system and/or engine. Does your AC lower your RPMs dramatically as well? The AC compressor should tug the engine harder than an OEM alternator. In my non-professional opinion, your engine is weaker than it should be at idle, and perhaps it's because it's lacking airflow. Explorers seem to be kinda well known for these air-related problems (especially IACVs or idle air control valves going out/getting dirty) but that's speculation on my part since I haven't experienced your issue myself.</p><p></p><p>It could be a weak battery that's causing the alternator to be at maximum power, but if it's so bad that you're worried about your engine stalling then no alternator draw should do that. Your vehicle should have the ability to regulate its power based on the load, even at idle. If you've ever watched an SPL demo on a fully loaded SUV or something and checked out the RPMs you'll notice that the vehicle works its ass off with 4 HO alternators tugging on the belt but it doesn't come close to stalling. I would swap out the air filter since it probably needs a new one anyways and then if no improvement consider cleaning some of the air intake parts or having someone else do it.</p><p></p><p>Checking voltages is a good first step, it shouldn't drop below 12.4 no matter how high it's turned up. A continually declining voltage means the alternator can't keep up while dramatic drops means the battery can't supply enough amperage. It's a good idea to do this at the amp terminals since that's where it will be most dramatic, even fat cables will result in about a .3-.4v drop from the battery to the trunk.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I don't have any specific recommendations on batteries, but obviously yellow tops are very good (just expensive).</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]h7rTcBanpMk[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>This Youtuber does amazingly useful videos on different products and car batteries appear to be one of the products that you don't necessarily get what you pay for if you splurge on name brands.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Edit: I suppose if your voltage dipped low enough it could affect your sparks, but your amp should be going into protect mode before that. They usually go into protect at around 11.8v or under with very minimal tolerances for the duration of those dips. I seriously doubt that's the issue, but it would point to a severely bad battery, like a dead cell.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lasherž, post: 8703734, member: 679555"] From what I can find online it looks like you've got either a 175A Alternator (base model) or 200A Alternator (XLT) OEM. Honestly both of those seem powerful enough to handle that demand without killing your RPMs. I know that vehicles with higher output OEM alternators also have increased demand, but not that much. I currently have a 110A alternator OEM and a 1200W RMS Rockford Fosgate amp. Even at clipping my lights barely dim and my RPM is able to stay steady idle or at speed. My engine is also likely smaller than yours, a 2.4L I-4 or at least puts out less horsepower if you have a turbo. I don't think this is related to the subwoofers as much as it's just highlighting an issue with your electrical system and/or engine. Does your AC lower your RPMs dramatically as well? The AC compressor should tug the engine harder than an OEM alternator. In my non-professional opinion, your engine is weaker than it should be at idle, and perhaps it's because it's lacking airflow. Explorers seem to be kinda well known for these air-related problems (especially IACVs or idle air control valves going out/getting dirty) but that's speculation on my part since I haven't experienced your issue myself. It could be a weak battery that's causing the alternator to be at maximum power, but if it's so bad that you're worried about your engine stalling then no alternator draw should do that. Your vehicle should have the ability to regulate its power based on the load, even at idle. If you've ever watched an SPL demo on a fully loaded SUV or something and checked out the RPMs you'll notice that the vehicle works its ass off with 4 HO alternators tugging on the belt but it doesn't come close to stalling. I would swap out the air filter since it probably needs a new one anyways and then if no improvement consider cleaning some of the air intake parts or having someone else do it. Checking voltages is a good first step, it shouldn't drop below 12.4 no matter how high it's turned up. A continually declining voltage means the alternator can't keep up while dramatic drops means the battery can't supply enough amperage. It's a good idea to do this at the amp terminals since that's where it will be most dramatic, even fat cables will result in about a .3-.4v drop from the battery to the trunk. I don't have any specific recommendations on batteries, but obviously yellow tops are very good (just expensive). [MEDIA=youtube]h7rTcBanpMk[/MEDIA] This Youtuber does amazingly useful videos on different products and car batteries appear to be one of the products that you don't necessarily get what you pay for if you splurge on name brands. Edit: I suppose if your voltage dipped low enough it could affect your sparks, but your amp should be going into protect mode before that. They usually go into protect at around 11.8v or under with very minimal tolerances for the duration of those dips. I seriously doubt that's the issue, but it would point to a severely bad battery, like a dead cell. [/QUOTE]
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