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Can someone give this a once over?
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<blockquote data-quote="Lasherž" data-source="post: 8717623" data-attributes="member: 679555"><p>Looks good to me minus the signal wire circuit which I feel is completely arbitrary.</p><p></p><p>2A fuse I don't think is necessary on the remote wire because it won't even put out 2A for long enough if it shorted before damaging the unit. I think the only real reason for it is to protect a cross between the signal wire and the positive cable on the amp terminal from crossing and then shorting. That's not really a realistic scenario and it would probably blow the few wire strands that touch rather than the fuse anyways. Every other scenario would ruin the radio before it harmed the wire. Also Hispls is correct about the relay being pointless. It uses far more power than the amps do. From the thread I believe he was referencing:</p><p></p><p></p><p>As you can see, the 5 channel amplifier used 17mA off the remote wire. That's nothing compared to your relay.</p><p>A standard low-power relay:</p><p></p><p></p><p>In other words the relay only adds up to any benefit if you've got too many amps to even realistically put in a truck cab (over 6), otherwise it's a waste of power and adds another point of failure.</p><p></p><p></p><p>I don't think there's a particularly good reason to run a ground cable to the battery, your chassis should be good for such low power unless you're trying to avoid scraping under a bolt or something. It could lower your resistance, but chassis makes for a pretty low resistance as it is and can move a few hundred amps no problem so long as you've done a big 3 upgrade.</p><p></p><p>Use the manufacturer recommended fuses in your manuals for the amps. Add the two amp fuse ratings together to get the fuse value on the battery before the distribution box.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lasherž, post: 8717623, member: 679555"] Looks good to me minus the signal wire circuit which I feel is completely arbitrary. 2A fuse I don't think is necessary on the remote wire because it won't even put out 2A for long enough if it shorted before damaging the unit. I think the only real reason for it is to protect a cross between the signal wire and the positive cable on the amp terminal from crossing and then shorting. That's not really a realistic scenario and it would probably blow the few wire strands that touch rather than the fuse anyways. Every other scenario would ruin the radio before it harmed the wire. Also Hispls is correct about the relay being pointless. It uses far more power than the amps do. From the thread I believe he was referencing: As you can see, the 5 channel amplifier used 17mA off the remote wire. That's nothing compared to your relay. A standard low-power relay: In other words the relay only adds up to any benefit if you've got too many amps to even realistically put in a truck cab (over 6), otherwise it's a waste of power and adds another point of failure. I don't think there's a particularly good reason to run a ground cable to the battery, your chassis should be good for such low power unless you're trying to avoid scraping under a bolt or something. It could lower your resistance, but chassis makes for a pretty low resistance as it is and can move a few hundred amps no problem so long as you've done a big 3 upgrade. Use the manufacturer recommended fuses in your manuals for the amps. Add the two amp fuse ratings together to get the fuse value on the battery before the distribution box. [/QUOTE]
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