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Budget Build advice for 2005 Toyota Corolla
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8607815" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>Idk how you think I'm mad lmao. I type like this to everyone here.</p><p></p><p>Its the main thing that you didnt use the 3 way active network thats why your previous system failed and you would blame the focal tweeters for being harsh. Through active crossovers alone ditching the passive crossover in the component set, you would have had amazing results even with sh*t speakers. Going active gives you the ability to naturally smoothen out any tweeter along with being able to have precise time alignment to build a proper sound stage as well as getting the levels right so your stage is extremely centered as well as being able to properly utilize the left and right EQ to get a perfect response. What you think is using most of the head unit is basically 10% of its legit capabilities. There's much more to the head unit that you still haven't tapped into, it gets extremely advanced.</p><p></p><p>Its unwise to not have enough power and force your sub into clipping due to unsatisfactory bass response thats it. There is no such thing as underpowering the sub, Just people forcing the amp to go past its limits making the signal dirty due to it not being loud enough which leads to heat and blown subs. Vs having a big enough amp where you are extremely satisfied and achieve your desired loudness/output with only 80% of the amp's capabilities used. The amp remains cooler and more efficient as well from not being overworked, a cleaner signal will mean the sub wont overheat as bad as a dirty signal.</p><p></p><p>now for your questions.</p><p></p><p>1: a single 15 is cheaper than two 12s and its not always about the cone area, the motorforce and Xmax is a factor as well as power handling.</p><p></p><p>2: i'd say 150 ah for every 3500 watts or 75 ah for 1750 in your case a group 31 batt in the rear is plenty.</p><p></p><p>3: any 1-2 amp trickle smart charger is fine.</p><p></p><p>4: Sam's club duracell batts, any platinum agms from autozone/orielly's, deka or even used i guess. I got 6 of my C&amp;D batts used from a guy that was getting out of car audio for 120 dollars total and they still work to this day.</p><p></p><p>5: I'd go with 0 gauge welding cable. OFC quality with CCA pricing. <a href="http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/57.htm" target="_blank">http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/57.htm</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8607815, member: 650438"] Idk how you think I'm mad lmao. I type like this to everyone here. Its the main thing that you didnt use the 3 way active network thats why your previous system failed and you would blame the focal tweeters for being harsh. Through active crossovers alone ditching the passive crossover in the component set, you would have had amazing results even with sh*t speakers. Going active gives you the ability to naturally smoothen out any tweeter along with being able to have precise time alignment to build a proper sound stage as well as getting the levels right so your stage is extremely centered as well as being able to properly utilize the left and right EQ to get a perfect response. What you think is using most of the head unit is basically 10% of its legit capabilities. There's much more to the head unit that you still haven't tapped into, it gets extremely advanced. Its unwise to not have enough power and force your sub into clipping due to unsatisfactory bass response thats it. There is no such thing as underpowering the sub, Just people forcing the amp to go past its limits making the signal dirty due to it not being loud enough which leads to heat and blown subs. Vs having a big enough amp where you are extremely satisfied and achieve your desired loudness/output with only 80% of the amp's capabilities used. The amp remains cooler and more efficient as well from not being overworked, a cleaner signal will mean the sub wont overheat as bad as a dirty signal. now for your questions. 1: a single 15 is cheaper than two 12s and its not always about the cone area, the motorforce and Xmax is a factor as well as power handling. 2: i'd say 150 ah for every 3500 watts or 75 ah for 1750 in your case a group 31 batt in the rear is plenty. 3: any 1-2 amp trickle smart charger is fine. 4: Sam's club duracell batts, any platinum agms from autozone/orielly's, deka or even used i guess. I got 6 of my C&D batts used from a guy that was getting out of car audio for 120 dollars total and they still work to this day. 5: I'd go with 0 gauge welding cable. OFC quality with CCA pricing. [URL="http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/57.htm"]http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/57.htm[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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