Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Buck Box Designs - New Picture Log
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Buck" data-source="post: 8736585" data-attributes="member: 591582"><p>That's a very good question that I don't have a perfect answer for. There's certain power level and box size I look for. Really a certain power level per woofer. There's a certain distance down a wall that I have where I'll put a brace if that wall exceeds that distance. It depends on the overall structure and shape of the box.</p><p></p><p>I use bracing to direct airflow as well, and you really have to be careful not to put bracing in a part of the box that would work against airflow in the box. Things like this are part of my designs that you probably don't understand fully, without seeing the dimensions as well. I do certain calculations with my bracing to make sure the bracing doesn't restrict airflow within chamber itself. I would say somewhere around the 5000 watt mark is where I start wanting to do double layered everything. It depends on the size of the box though, and if the box is really long and skinny or more cube shaped, or if it's really flat and square. A 5000 watt 2 12's box, you don't need double, but you'd be totally justified in using double layers.</p><p></p><p>Like that 5 DC 15's wall I did, that box will have metal braces going in it as well as fiberglass resin layers on the inside. So I might've even done 3 walls of thickness on parts of that box, if the extra stuff wasn't going in there, and if I had way more space.</p><p></p><p>Rarely do most people need double layers on every side. The boxes I designed that are double layered that are both 2 15's boxes were both requested to be that way. They didn't necessarily need to be that way, but it makes building them simple, in a way, and the inside of the box is unobstructed. Doubling up all walls is easier to wrap your head around vs adding strategic bracing placed at very specific points.</p><p></p><p>Another point to add is MDF vs Birch vs Maple vs whatever. Most of the time it's MDF or Birch. You can get away with less bracing in some cases with Birch wood sheets simply because of the strength.</p><p></p><p>Using a 1 layer box with bracing almost always saved space over using a 2 layer box with no bracing, but only up to a certain point. With walls and bandpasses, like blowthroughs, sometimes it's almost impossible to do proper bracing with wood, because the subs have to be accessed from inside of the enclosure and the enclosures are so large. The subs and port wind up stuffed in there, usually, without much clearance to any near wall, very close, so there's not even a place to put a brace. So you have to add layers of wood and stuff like skinnier and easy to remove metal braces. If I built a lot of high powered boxes, I would invest in a quick and sturdy way to make variable length metal braces.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buck, post: 8736585, member: 591582"] That's a very good question that I don't have a perfect answer for. There's certain power level and box size I look for. Really a certain power level per woofer. There's a certain distance down a wall that I have where I'll put a brace if that wall exceeds that distance. It depends on the overall structure and shape of the box. I use bracing to direct airflow as well, and you really have to be careful not to put bracing in a part of the box that would work against airflow in the box. Things like this are part of my designs that you probably don't understand fully, without seeing the dimensions as well. I do certain calculations with my bracing to make sure the bracing doesn't restrict airflow within chamber itself. I would say somewhere around the 5000 watt mark is where I start wanting to do double layered everything. It depends on the size of the box though, and if the box is really long and skinny or more cube shaped, or if it's really flat and square. A 5000 watt 2 12's box, you don't need double, but you'd be totally justified in using double layers. Like that 5 DC 15's wall I did, that box will have metal braces going in it as well as fiberglass resin layers on the inside. So I might've even done 3 walls of thickness on parts of that box, if the extra stuff wasn't going in there, and if I had way more space. Rarely do most people need double layers on every side. The boxes I designed that are double layered that are both 2 15's boxes were both requested to be that way. They didn't necessarily need to be that way, but it makes building them simple, in a way, and the inside of the box is unobstructed. Doubling up all walls is easier to wrap your head around vs adding strategic bracing placed at very specific points. Another point to add is MDF vs Birch vs Maple vs whatever. Most of the time it's MDF or Birch. You can get away with less bracing in some cases with Birch wood sheets simply because of the strength. Using a 1 layer box with bracing almost always saved space over using a 2 layer box with no bracing, but only up to a certain point. With walls and bandpasses, like blowthroughs, sometimes it's almost impossible to do proper bracing with wood, because the subs have to be accessed from inside of the enclosure and the enclosures are so large. The subs and port wind up stuffed in there, usually, without much clearance to any near wall, very close, so there's not even a place to put a brace. So you have to add layers of wood and stuff like skinnier and easy to remove metal braces. If I built a lot of high powered boxes, I would invest in a quick and sturdy way to make variable length metal braces. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Buck Box Designs - New Picture Log
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh