Reply to thread

Message

<blockquote data-quote="bigbassman" data-source="post: 243771" data-attributes="member: 542419">you should read a bit harder..&nbsp;&nbsp; I didn&#039;t say 30% efficient..&nbsp; I said 70% efficient, total amp, at full power..&nbsp;&nbsp; that&#039;s accepted avg for a switching power supply amplifier..&nbsp; total amp..&nbsp; meaning power in to power out..&nbsp; &nbsp; its not dead on, nor was it meant to be..and btw..&nbsp; I wasn&#039;t going for an EXACT current draw...&nbsp; but within the varibles I stated, mine will be close...email hifonics, and you&#039;ll get a current draw spec..&nbsp; from a test bench..&nbsp; that means extremely stable voltage..&nbsp; which will not represent IN CAR PERFORMANCE....1600 / 14.4 + 30% = 144 amps, which would make your guess correct...&nbsp;&nbsp; but you WILL NOT..&nbsp; repeat once more.. WILL NOT ACHEIVE THAT VOLTAGE IN CAR WITH THE AMP AT FULL POWER..* I=P/V is a derivative of ohm&#039;s law, and while not exactly correct, is refered to as such for ease of understanding..here&#039;s one for the road...JBL 1200.1&nbsp;&nbsp; JBL techs rated it as having 114 amps of current draw at full powerit was tested in the jan. 2000 issue of Car Stereo Review (now CSRME)&nbsp; Ken C. Pohlmann test it as producing 1378 watts at 14.4 volts..It was also tested&nbsp; to be 73.6% efficient at full power...lets do my math...1378 / 14.4 + 26.4% = 120.9 ampswell gee golly..&nbsp; my INCORRECT//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif method which took all of 25 seconds, got me to within 6.9 amps of the ACTUAL TESTED CURRENT DRAW, DONE BY THE PEOPLE WHO DESIGNED THE **** AMP //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gifyou go ahead and do your method..&nbsp; I&#039;ll take mine, and have the rest of the night to look at ****..&nbsp; //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gifgoodbye //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifLoyd L.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="bigbassman, post: 243771, member: 542419"] you should read a bit harder.. I didn't say 30% efficient.. I said 70% efficient, total amp, at full power.. that's accepted avg for a switching power supply amplifier.. total amp.. meaning power in to power out.. its not dead on, nor was it meant to be.. and btw.. I wasn't going for an EXACT current draw... but within the varibles I stated, mine will be close... email hifonics, and you'll get a current draw spec.. from a test bench.. that means extremely stable voltage.. which will not represent IN CAR PERFORMANCE.... 1600 / 14.4 + 30% = 144 amps, which would make your guess correct... but you WILL NOT.. repeat once more.. WILL NOT ACHEIVE THAT VOLTAGE IN CAR WITH THE AMP AT FULL POWER.. * I=P/V is a derivative of ohm's law, and while not exactly correct, is refered to as such for ease of understanding.. here's one for the road... JBL 1200.1 JBL techs rated it as having 114 amps of current draw at full power it was tested in the jan. 2000 issue of Car Stereo Review (now CSRME) Ken C. Pohlmann test it as producing 1378 watts at 14.4 volts.. It was also tested to be 73.6% efficient at full power... lets do my math... 1378 / 14.4 + 26.4% = 120.9 amps well gee golly.. my [B]INCORRECT[/B][IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] method which took all of 25 seconds, got me to within 6.9 amps of the [B]ACTUAL TESTED CURRENT DRAW, DONE BY THE PEOPLE WHO DESIGNED THE **** AMP[/B] [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif[/IMG] you go ahead and do your method.. I'll take mine, and have the rest of the night to look at ****.. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif[/IMG] goodbye [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] Loyd L. [/QUOTE]

Verification