Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Subwoofers
Break in period for subs
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="mat3833" data-source="post: 8754338" data-attributes="member: 587645"><p>OK, then let's not. It makes zero difference whatsoever in reality, just makes it eaiser to ELI5 you. </p><p></p><p>Let's use 3 different scenarios here, all with a stiff suspension driver. First will be sealed, second will be a musical tuned ported, third will be a burp box/output based box. Some assumptions will be made here, so feel free to nitpick as you will. </p><p></p><p>Scenario 1 - sealed box. So, you have a super stiff woofer with a very strong motor and you cram it into a sealed enclosure. GREAT! Now you gave that motor something extra to fight against and increased the mechanical dampening. The same shit still applies. Sealed enclosures have a shallow rolloff. Unless you put whatever woofer into a super small enclosure, you are still very much capable of driving the spiders too hard. You just gave yourself a larger margin for error. </p><p></p><p>Scenario 2 - musical ported enclosure. Same woofer, but this time we have an appropriately sized ported enclosure tuned to 31hz. Pretty solid tuning for a musical box. Woooooo hooooop, buckle up boys and girls, it's going to be a Rollercoaster of fun now! You just gave yourself extra safety AND potentially fucked yourself in the *** at the same time! I'm impressed! See, ported enclosures increase output by driving a mass of air and using that to increase output. You use motor force to drive that mass of air. good on ya mate, you gave your spiders a good bit of safety net. Unfortunately, if you don't have a proper subsonic filter you did a bad thing. Below port tuning, your sweet sound producing air mass doesn't do jack shit. It no longer helps control the woofer once you dip below tuning and it's basically like operating your sub without an enclosure at all. With a properly set subsonic filter, you can beat on your sub like a military husband going after his wife all day and she will stay with you forever. But you forget that all important knob to set your subsonic filter and your beaten, broken wife is going to grab your handgun and end your shit QUICK. You go from having tons of damping to almost ZERO, and that spells disaster in this case. 2000w of power hammering at 31hz will have virtually no cone movement because of your port, track change to a song that peaks at 25hz and all of a sudden your 4mm of total cone movement turns into 60mm of total cone movment. Even if you have the excursion capacity for that to avoid smashing the backplate or leaving the gap, you still just possibly cracked your spiders. </p><p></p><p>Scenario 3- output tuned ported enclosure. Yep, same shit, but this time homie wants his shit to SLAM on some 40hz music. Great, bump that tuning up to 39hz and rock on man! Oops, Jaquine forgot his 10000w Xplod amp doesn't have shit for subsonic filter and wanted to impress his new ***** by dropping some Young Jeezy. Oh no, so much for that woofer control when he's playing a 20hz note. All that hope for dropping some panties goes up like a trailer park meth lab. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Any other questions, comments, concerns, or nitpicking? Any way you look at this the facts are facts. Some subs do need a break in. Some manufacturers even state specific subs need a break in.</p><p></p><p>Matt</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mat3833, post: 8754338, member: 587645"] OK, then let's not. It makes zero difference whatsoever in reality, just makes it eaiser to ELI5 you. Let's use 3 different scenarios here, all with a stiff suspension driver. First will be sealed, second will be a musical tuned ported, third will be a burp box/output based box. Some assumptions will be made here, so feel free to nitpick as you will. Scenario 1 - sealed box. So, you have a super stiff woofer with a very strong motor and you cram it into a sealed enclosure. GREAT! Now you gave that motor something extra to fight against and increased the mechanical dampening. The same shit still applies. Sealed enclosures have a shallow rolloff. Unless you put whatever woofer into a super small enclosure, you are still very much capable of driving the spiders too hard. You just gave yourself a larger margin for error. Scenario 2 - musical ported enclosure. Same woofer, but this time we have an appropriately sized ported enclosure tuned to 31hz. Pretty solid tuning for a musical box. Woooooo hooooop, buckle up boys and girls, it's going to be a Rollercoaster of fun now! You just gave yourself extra safety AND potentially fucked yourself in the *** at the same time! I'm impressed! See, ported enclosures increase output by driving a mass of air and using that to increase output. You use motor force to drive that mass of air. good on ya mate, you gave your spiders a good bit of safety net. Unfortunately, if you don't have a proper subsonic filter you did a bad thing. Below port tuning, your sweet sound producing air mass doesn't do jack shit. It no longer helps control the woofer once you dip below tuning and it's basically like operating your sub without an enclosure at all. With a properly set subsonic filter, you can beat on your sub like a military husband going after his wife all day and she will stay with you forever. But you forget that all important knob to set your subsonic filter and your beaten, broken wife is going to grab your handgun and end your shit QUICK. You go from having tons of damping to almost ZERO, and that spells disaster in this case. 2000w of power hammering at 31hz will have virtually no cone movement because of your port, track change to a song that peaks at 25hz and all of a sudden your 4mm of total cone movement turns into 60mm of total cone movment. Even if you have the excursion capacity for that to avoid smashing the backplate or leaving the gap, you still just possibly cracked your spiders. Scenario 3- output tuned ported enclosure. Yep, same shit, but this time homie wants his shit to SLAM on some 40hz music. Great, bump that tuning up to 39hz and rock on man! Oops, Jaquine forgot his 10000w Xplod amp doesn't have shit for subsonic filter and wanted to impress his new ***** by dropping some Young Jeezy. Oh no, so much for that woofer control when he's playing a 20hz note. All that hope for dropping some panties goes up like a trailer park meth lab. Any other questions, comments, concerns, or nitpicking? Any way you look at this the facts are facts. Some subs do need a break in. Some manufacturers even state specific subs need a break in. Matt [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Subwoofers
Break in period for subs
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list