Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Box Confirmation please
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="THATpurpleKUSH" data-source="post: 8607911" data-attributes="member: 615398"><p>1. For clearance from the end of the port to the wall of the box allow no less than half the width of the port, personally I usually go no less than the width of the port.</p><p></p><p>2. If you are chasing numbers yes location of the port can matter, for your application it's not as important. Use either the same face the sub is on or fire the port out the top of the box. It's hard to tell but from the pictures if you rear fired the port toward the hatch there might not be enough room between the mouth of the port and the wall of the hatch. If that space is at least half the width of the port then it would be ok to port to the rear.</p><p></p><p>3. If the ends of the port are flared then the length of the port needs to be extended by the length of the radius of the flare on each end. For example PSP 4 inch aeroport kit is 18" long overall but only 17" is usable. If there is no flare just use the full end to end length.</p><p></p><p>I like to use a piece of pvc to mount the port tube to then bolt the whole assembly to the box. It's easier to swap out different length ports that way.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="THATpurpleKUSH, post: 8607911, member: 615398"] 1. For clearance from the end of the port to the wall of the box allow no less than half the width of the port, personally I usually go no less than the width of the port. 2. If you are chasing numbers yes location of the port can matter, for your application it's not as important. Use either the same face the sub is on or fire the port out the top of the box. It's hard to tell but from the pictures if you rear fired the port toward the hatch there might not be enough room between the mouth of the port and the wall of the hatch. If that space is at least half the width of the port then it would be ok to port to the rear. 3. If the ends of the port are flared then the length of the port needs to be extended by the length of the radius of the flare on each end. For example PSP 4 inch aeroport kit is 18" long overall but only 17" is usable. If there is no flare just use the full end to end length. I like to use a piece of pvc to mount the port tube to then bolt the whole assembly to the box. It's easier to swap out different length ports that way. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Box Confirmation please
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh