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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 6865505" data-attributes="member: 576029">whether or not to replace factory wiring depends on their size, condition, and location.&nbsp; The battery will typically have two grounds - chassis and body.&nbsp; I&#039;ll leave the body if the factory battery terminal is retained (top and side post battery).&nbsp; I&#039;ll upgrade the body ground to 8awg min, and chassis ground to the same size as the audio system power wire (4awg min).the engine block to chassis jumper is usually replaced, and i&#039;ll reuse the factory grounding points if the are worthy.&nbsp; I&#039;ll always sand down the paint, get the new grounding ring terminal well secured, then coat the whole thing with silicone or a protectant to prevent rust.Do what you think makes sense - and inspect all factory terminals.&nbsp; Replace any terminals with corrosion or oxidation.&nbsp; Remember that the main resistance (voltage drop) is in your connections, and not usually the wire.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 6865505, member: 576029"] whether or not to replace factory wiring depends on their size, condition, and location. The battery will typically have two grounds - chassis and body. I'll leave the body if the factory battery terminal is retained (top and side post battery). I'll upgrade the body ground to 8awg min, and chassis ground to the same size as the audio system power wire (4awg min). the engine block to chassis jumper is usually replaced, and i'll reuse the factory grounding points if the are worthy. I'll always sand down the paint, get the new grounding ring terminal well secured, then coat the whole thing with silicone or a protectant to prevent rust. Do what you think makes sense - and inspect all factory terminals. Replace any terminals with corrosion or oxidation. Remember that the main resistance (voltage drop) is in your connections, and not usually the wire. [/QUOTE]

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