Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Big 3 questions...Nissan Sentra 2004
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="skogie1" data-source="post: 7361931" data-attributes="member: 633822"><p>This is a follow up to a previous post I put out... Going to do the big 3 upgrade.</p><p></p><p>I have a 2004 Sentra. I have 1 alpine m-1000 powering 2 cvr comp 10's (kicker) that run 400w rms each. I have a 1 zx-350.4 powering 4 speakers all of which are 60w rms. My lights dim and I need more power.</p><p></p><p>I have a new starter battery. I have the original alternator.</p><p></p><p>I will do the big 3 and if that doesn't take care of things I will install a second, deep cycle battery in the trunk.</p><p></p><p>Questions:</p><p></p><p>1. From what I can find online the original alt puts out about 60 amps. If that's the case why do I need 1/0 gauge wire like everyone recommends? I have some 2 gauge welding cable that has an amp capacity of 190 amps, won't that work just fine?</p><p></p><p>2. I see that there a lot of different types of battery terminals for car audio installation. Are they all made of the same materials? Are any made of better materials than others? Can I just go to my local tool store and get a terminal that will accomodate the larger cable or do I need to buy the expensive ones made by audio companies?</p><p></p><p>3. Nissan grounds the battery to the engine block not the chassis. I should change that to ground on the chassis, correct? Isn't the original configuration just creating a longer path for the current to find it's way back to the battery negative? (from the amp neg to the chassis to the block to the battery neg, instead of amp neg to chassis to battery neg.) Am I understanding this right?</p><p></p><p>4. Any tips on reattaching the fuse box line from the positive battery terminal after I've created a new battery terminal for the alternator attachment? I'm attempting to leave all cables untouched and attached so that when I sell this car it will be easy to revert it back to factory condition.</p><p></p><p>Thanks again to anyone who takes the time to weigh in on this.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="skogie1, post: 7361931, member: 633822"] This is a follow up to a previous post I put out... Going to do the big 3 upgrade. I have a 2004 Sentra. I have 1 alpine m-1000 powering 2 cvr comp 10's (kicker) that run 400w rms each. I have a 1 zx-350.4 powering 4 speakers all of which are 60w rms. My lights dim and I need more power. I have a new starter battery. I have the original alternator. I will do the big 3 and if that doesn't take care of things I will install a second, deep cycle battery in the trunk. Questions: 1. From what I can find online the original alt puts out about 60 amps. If that's the case why do I need 1/0 gauge wire like everyone recommends? I have some 2 gauge welding cable that has an amp capacity of 190 amps, won't that work just fine? 2. I see that there a lot of different types of battery terminals for car audio installation. Are they all made of the same materials? Are any made of better materials than others? Can I just go to my local tool store and get a terminal that will accomodate the larger cable or do I need to buy the expensive ones made by audio companies? 3. Nissan grounds the battery to the engine block not the chassis. I should change that to ground on the chassis, correct? Isn't the original configuration just creating a longer path for the current to find it's way back to the battery negative? (from the amp neg to the chassis to the block to the battery neg, instead of amp neg to chassis to battery neg.) Am I understanding this right? 4. Any tips on reattaching the fuse box line from the positive battery terminal after I've created a new battery terminal for the alternator attachment? I'm attempting to leave all cables untouched and attached so that when I sell this car it will be easy to revert it back to factory condition. Thanks again to anyone who takes the time to weigh in on this. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Big 3 questions...Nissan Sentra 2004
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh