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<blockquote data-quote="ls2poweredgoat" data-source="post: 4452459" data-attributes="member: 576367">I performed the BIG-3 about 10 days ago, and all has been fine.&nbsp; My car is a 2001 Accord F23 5M btw, with 90,000 miles on it.After doing the BIG-3, everything was normal, my lights still dimmed as much as they always have.Anyway.&nbsp; The last week or so, my car will shut off going down the road, but only when the engine is jerked (downshifting/upshifting hard, going over big speed bump, etc).&nbsp; At first the car would shut off for not even a second, and kick back on.The last 2 days, it has began to get worse.&nbsp; It has been much more sensitive to abrupt shifting/road bumps.&nbsp; Last night the car shut off for a good 3 seconds, then kicked right back on.Today I was leaving my neighborhood, upshifted to 2nd gear, and bam, the car shut off completely.&nbsp; So, I opened the hood, and all my connections were tight, and no fuses were blown.I came to the conclusion it CANNOT be a fuse/fuseable link because once a fuse blows, the connection is lost.&nbsp; Which in turn, the car wouldn&#039;t have kicked back on like it has been.So I did some research, called a buddy of mine who also had the same problem with his Civic.&nbsp; And it ended up being the Ignition Control Module on his car, I also called my step-dad, who is a master mechanic, and he confirmed the same thing.&nbsp; Telling me that it could not have been a fuse, because the car has been kicking back on.&nbsp; Like I said, and he said, once a fuse is gone, the connection is lost.Did the BIG-3 have anything to do with this?&nbsp; I know it sounds asinine to ask, but I can&#039;t help but wonder.&nbsp; The guy at the autoparts store said this is a common problem with Hondas.The part cost $150, and they had to special order it.&nbsp; I plan on fixing it when I get home from work tomorrow night.Any input/suggestions? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif</blockquote>

[QUOTE="ls2poweredgoat, post: 4452459, member: 576367"] I performed the BIG-3 about 10 days ago, and all has been fine. My car is a 2001 Accord F23 5M btw, with 90,000 miles on it. After doing the BIG-3, everything was normal, my lights still dimmed as much as they always have. Anyway. The last week or so, my car will shut off going down the road, but only when the engine is jerked (downshifting/upshifting hard, going over big speed bump, etc). At first the car would shut off for not even a second, and kick back on. The last 2 days, it has began to get worse. It has been much more sensitive to abrupt shifting/road bumps. Last night the car shut off for a good 3 seconds, then kicked right back on. Today I was leaving my neighborhood, upshifted to 2nd gear, and bam, the car shut off completely. So, I opened the hood, and all my connections were tight, and no fuses were blown. I came to the conclusion it CANNOT be a fuse/fuseable link because once a fuse blows, the connection is lost. Which in turn, the car wouldn't have kicked back on like it has been. So I did some research, called a buddy of mine who also had the same problem with his Civic. And it ended up being the [B]Ignition Control Module[/B] on his car, I also called my step-dad, who is a master mechanic, and he confirmed the same thing. Telling me that it could not have been a fuse, because the car has been kicking back on. Like I said, and he said, once a fuse is gone, the connection is lost. Did the BIG-3 have anything to do with this? I know it sounds asinine to ask, but I can't help but wonder. The guy at the autoparts store said this is a common problem with Hondas. The part cost $150, and they had to special order it. I plan on fixing it when I get home from work tomorrow night. Any input/suggestions? [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif[/IMG] [/QUOTE]

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