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<blockquote data-quote="I Like Waffle" data-source="post: 7081878" data-attributes="member: 600248"><p>I think youre fine with the common ground spot for both the wires, thats actually better to have as long as its a strong ground. Make sure you have a good frame to body ground as well, alot of people dont think of it but all the cars components ground to the body not the frame. So i try to add a ground from the actual cabin of the car (firewall) to the frame or engine, somewhere they can be linked together. Preferably the frame as the engine isnt really a good conductor.</p><p></p><p>What you said about the alternator bracket to batt is a good idea also, given you have the room a ground from the alternator directly to the battery would be optimum. BUT you also need to keep the other 2, as theyre important also, the more grounds the more amperage you can flow without a problem. Ideally you want a good pathway from each component of the car/electrical system to the other component, so i would leave your other 2 wires there and simply add another.</p><p></p><p>Youre correct about current taking the path of least resistance, personally i like to leave the factory grounds as long as theyre in good shape, and generally theyre a PITA to get to on the other end anyway. Leaving the factory grounds just adds more current capability to the system, alot of cars seem to have 4 gauge for the factory ground which if they do i leave it there.</p><p></p><p>Personally i like to do this method when running alot of juice</p><p></p><p>Alternator Bracket - Frame</p><p></p><p>Alternator Bracket - Battery</p><p></p><p>Frame - Body (firewall or fender)</p><p></p><p>Frame - Battery</p><p></p><p>This is given that you wire your major components directly to the frame where possible, if not, you should add another body to battery ground.</p><p></p><p>When you do all this, make sure you use the closed type copper tube terminals with electrically conductive grease to prevent corrosion. I like to use the closed type copper lugs, grease inside the lug, and clean and tape up the end of the lug to the wire to seal it. The ground points at the battery typically corrode easily, but it largely depends on the quality of wire youre using. Another good thing about those lugs is you can beat them basically flat if you need to use a bunch of grounds and such.</p><p></p><p>Oh, and the gold plated stuff isnt worth a ****.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="I Like Waffle, post: 7081878, member: 600248"] I think youre fine with the common ground spot for both the wires, thats actually better to have as long as its a strong ground. Make sure you have a good frame to body ground as well, alot of people dont think of it but all the cars components ground to the body not the frame. So i try to add a ground from the actual cabin of the car (firewall) to the frame or engine, somewhere they can be linked together. Preferably the frame as the engine isnt really a good conductor. What you said about the alternator bracket to batt is a good idea also, given you have the room a ground from the alternator directly to the battery would be optimum. BUT you also need to keep the other 2, as theyre important also, the more grounds the more amperage you can flow without a problem. Ideally you want a good pathway from each component of the car/electrical system to the other component, so i would leave your other 2 wires there and simply add another. Youre correct about current taking the path of least resistance, personally i like to leave the factory grounds as long as theyre in good shape, and generally theyre a PITA to get to on the other end anyway. Leaving the factory grounds just adds more current capability to the system, alot of cars seem to have 4 gauge for the factory ground which if they do i leave it there. Personally i like to do this method when running alot of juice Alternator Bracket - Frame Alternator Bracket - Battery Frame - Body (firewall or fender) Frame - Battery This is given that you wire your major components directly to the frame where possible, if not, you should add another body to battery ground. When you do all this, make sure you use the closed type copper tube terminals with electrically conductive grease to prevent corrosion. I like to use the closed type copper lugs, grease inside the lug, and clean and tape up the end of the lug to the wire to seal it. The ground points at the battery typically corrode easily, but it largely depends on the quality of wire youre using. Another good thing about those lugs is you can beat them basically flat if you need to use a bunch of grounds and such. Oh, and the gold plated stuff isnt worth a ****. [/QUOTE]
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