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Car Audio Equipment
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Best midrange/vocal component speakers around 150 dollars
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8662194" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>you are meeting all the wrong people who are doing everything wrong. You can get exceptional sound quality on a decent budget if you know how to spend your money and tune properly. First off any kind of component or coaxial idea, throw that in the trash. You will not get anywhere with that especially with all the cars you listened to. I've listened to cars with 1500$ hertz speakers that sound similar but inferior to a 120$ budget system with raw drivers ran active and properly tuned.</p><p></p><p>Reasons why coaxials are sh*t. Bad positioning in the stock location, unless you do them in the kick panel pointed up, your soundstage is stuck at the bottom by your feet and the axis sensitive tweeter is prone to being blocked by legs which can greatly affect the stage. Another reason is the crossover point is a gamble, every vehicle has different cabin sizes, door plastic, metal density, cavity size and dash shapes and reflections which greatly affects how your speakers sound aka overall vehicle acoustics. A random factory set crossover point along with random power distribution leaves all chance of SQ to the luck of the draw whether or not the factory presets work with your car or not. In your case it definitely did not. </p><p></p><p>Component speakers face most of the same issues outlined above and you have no means to control midrange and tweeter independently from each other nor do you have the ability to time align mids and tweets seperately which leads you to a giant mess of a soundstage thats no where close to precise... anyone that says otherwise pretty much has never heard a precise pin-point accurate soundstage before, it can be wide but it wont be precise with proper instrument seperation. Also level controls matter. Your left tweeter is a lot closer to your ears than your left mid, right tweeter and right mid. There's a lot of proper amounts of tuning that you literally never got the chance to do in your setup because you went with coaxials or components.</p><p></p><p>Going active means utilizing the crossover points in a DSP or amp and setting it yourself along with the slope. This allows you to get an absolute perfect blend between mid and tweeter regardless of how poorly matched they are sonic wise or how sh*tty your vehicle acoustics is. In your case, you have a big spike between 2khz and 8khz a proper crossover point will allow you to have a gap to tame those frequencies very naturally without excessive need of an EQ - which does not really solve the issue. You can time align and output match each mid and tweeter independently. With a good crossover point, you can put a lot more power to your mid and tweeter and it'll still sound absolutely amazing and smooth even at higher levels I myself Literally throw 500 watts on my mids and it never gets harsh or sibilant. Also you are not paying a lot of money for sh*tty drivers and an even sh*ttier passive crossover which means you can put money on actual good sounding SQ drivers. Madisound or partsexpress will be your go to websites for raw drivers. for a beginner's setup, silverflute 6.5s and vifa xt 25s will smoke most 300 dollar and under components even with a newbie active SQ tune. I heard the same setup with a professional tune that won 3rd place at a local MECA SQ competition and he was against people with 20k+ into their sound systems that had no idea what proper tuning is aka passive components, minimal head unit tweaks. Tuning and install knowledge is King for SQ. Types of speakers used is irrelevant for the most part past a certain level of quality at most its just a lateral transfer into a different kind of sound more than an upgrade in sound.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8662194, member: 650438"] you are meeting all the wrong people who are doing everything wrong. You can get exceptional sound quality on a decent budget if you know how to spend your money and tune properly. First off any kind of component or coaxial idea, throw that in the trash. You will not get anywhere with that especially with all the cars you listened to. I've listened to cars with 1500$ hertz speakers that sound similar but inferior to a 120$ budget system with raw drivers ran active and properly tuned. Reasons why coaxials are sh*t. Bad positioning in the stock location, unless you do them in the kick panel pointed up, your soundstage is stuck at the bottom by your feet and the axis sensitive tweeter is prone to being blocked by legs which can greatly affect the stage. Another reason is the crossover point is a gamble, every vehicle has different cabin sizes, door plastic, metal density, cavity size and dash shapes and reflections which greatly affects how your speakers sound aka overall vehicle acoustics. A random factory set crossover point along with random power distribution leaves all chance of SQ to the luck of the draw whether or not the factory presets work with your car or not. In your case it definitely did not. Component speakers face most of the same issues outlined above and you have no means to control midrange and tweeter independently from each other nor do you have the ability to time align mids and tweets seperately which leads you to a giant mess of a soundstage thats no where close to precise... anyone that says otherwise pretty much has never heard a precise pin-point accurate soundstage before, it can be wide but it wont be precise with proper instrument seperation. Also level controls matter. Your left tweeter is a lot closer to your ears than your left mid, right tweeter and right mid. There's a lot of proper amounts of tuning that you literally never got the chance to do in your setup because you went with coaxials or components. Going active means utilizing the crossover points in a DSP or amp and setting it yourself along with the slope. This allows you to get an absolute perfect blend between mid and tweeter regardless of how poorly matched they are sonic wise or how sh*tty your vehicle acoustics is. In your case, you have a big spike between 2khz and 8khz a proper crossover point will allow you to have a gap to tame those frequencies very naturally without excessive need of an EQ - which does not really solve the issue. You can time align and output match each mid and tweeter independently. With a good crossover point, you can put a lot more power to your mid and tweeter and it'll still sound absolutely amazing and smooth even at higher levels I myself Literally throw 500 watts on my mids and it never gets harsh or sibilant. Also you are not paying a lot of money for sh*tty drivers and an even sh*ttier passive crossover which means you can put money on actual good sounding SQ drivers. Madisound or partsexpress will be your go to websites for raw drivers. for a beginner's setup, silverflute 6.5s and vifa xt 25s will smoke most 300 dollar and under components even with a newbie active SQ tune. I heard the same setup with a professional tune that won 3rd place at a local MECA SQ competition and he was against people with 20k+ into their sound systems that had no idea what proper tuning is aka passive components, minimal head unit tweaks. Tuning and install knowledge is King for SQ. Types of speakers used is irrelevant for the most part past a certain level of quality at most its just a lateral transfer into a different kind of sound more than an upgrade in sound. [/QUOTE]
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Best midrange/vocal component speakers around 150 dollars
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