Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Beginner's guide to box building
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="CBFryman2" data-source="post: 2397220" data-attributes="member: 565445"><p>I havent done controll testing but here is what I've seen.</p><p></p><p>WoodGlue: When the corners are broken the MDF brakes or a few layres tare off, depending on how it was broken apart.</p><p></p><p>Gorilla Glue: When the corners are broke apart the MDF usually brakes, if it tares if tares DEEP</p><p></p><p>Polyester Resin (what you use to fiberglass and coat the inside of boxes with): It tore DEEP like with Gorilla glue but the tares where uneven and blotchy, they alternated between the two sides of the joint.</p><p></p><p>Liquid Nails: A joke of an adheasive for box building at best. Just Screws where stronger by far.</p><p></p><p>Titebond II: MDF broke or tore the top few layres off, similar to woodglue.</p><p></p><p>Thoes are the only adheasives I've tried. Agian, woodglue works fine. I just saw that gorilla glue and polyester resin soaked in deeper and held stronger.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CBFryman2, post: 2397220, member: 565445"] I havent done controll testing but here is what I've seen. WoodGlue: When the corners are broken the MDF brakes or a few layres tare off, depending on how it was broken apart. Gorilla Glue: When the corners are broke apart the MDF usually brakes, if it tares if tares DEEP Polyester Resin (what you use to fiberglass and coat the inside of boxes with): It tore DEEP like with Gorilla glue but the tares where uneven and blotchy, they alternated between the two sides of the joint. Liquid Nails: A joke of an adheasive for box building at best. Just Screws where stronger by far. Titebond II: MDF broke or tore the top few layres off, similar to woodglue. Thoes are the only adheasives I've tried. Agian, woodglue works fine. I just saw that gorilla glue and polyester resin soaked in deeper and held stronger. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Beginner's guide to box building
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list