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<blockquote data-quote="Plutoman" data-source="post: 5805780" data-attributes="member: 601528">Head unit power is at most 15-20 true RMS power.&nbsp; Anything more is clipping the shit out of it - it doesn&#039;t have the internal electronics that can support more power.The rating on it is max power - ignore it.&nbsp; Head unit power is minimal.As been said, take the amp you have - locate a decent set of speakers, rated for the RMS output of 40 watts.&nbsp; Brands I&#039;ve seen that sound good on a budget are Infinity and Pioneer speakers.&nbsp; If you don&#039;t use the other channels for a sub, then you can get some more speakers for the rear, but they aren&#039;t a priority, imo.&nbsp; The front stage is more important - I&#039;d dial down the gains on the amp to compensate in the rear and keep the sound centered in the front of you.Don&#039;t put a component set in the back - it&#039;s not worth it.&nbsp; Put a component set in the front, if possible - if you don&#039;t want to do the work, get a good set of 4x6&#039;s.&nbsp; The front stage is much more important.&nbsp; If you power anything off the HU, make it be the rear speakers.As for your subwoofer?&nbsp; Don&#039;t get one of those crutchfield ones, imo.&nbsp; More expensive there, not to mention it&#039;s much better to build your own box.&nbsp; If you are a carpenter, that&#039;s not even a question - you&#039;ll have more than enough experience to get a solid one built.&nbsp; Make sure to take into account the sub - don&#039;t build a box on its own, build it to the subs specs.&nbsp; On a budget, Alpine Type R&#039;s are good, and I&#039;ve seen some decent rockford fosgate subs, and infinity subs, but they aren&#039;t top of the line.&nbsp; Honestly, I&#039;d save a bit of money and get a good Fi or Re sub myself.The amp, you could bridge the second two channels to power a sub.&nbsp; However, it won&#039;t put a lot of power out for it.&nbsp; A separate amp is going to be better.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Plutoman, post: 5805780, member: 601528"] Head unit power is at most 15-20 true RMS power. Anything more is clipping the shit out of it - it doesn't have the internal electronics that can support more power. The rating on it is max power - ignore it. Head unit power is minimal. As been said, take the amp you have - locate a decent set of speakers, rated for the RMS output of 40 watts. Brands I've seen that sound good on a budget are Infinity and Pioneer speakers. If you don't use the other channels for a sub, then you can get some more speakers for the rear, but they aren't a priority, imo. The front stage is more important - I'd dial down the gains on the amp to compensate in the rear and keep the sound centered in the front of you. Don't put a component set in the back - it's not worth it. Put a component set in the front, if possible - if you don't want to do the work, get a good set of 4x6's. The front stage is much more important. If you power anything off the HU, make it be the rear speakers. As for your subwoofer? Don't get one of those crutchfield ones, imo. More expensive there, not to mention it's much better to build your own box. If you are a carpenter, that's not even a question - you'll have more than enough experience to get a solid one built. Make sure to take into account the sub - don't build a box on its own, build it to the subs specs. On a budget, Alpine Type R's are good, and I've seen some decent rockford fosgate subs, and infinity subs, but they aren't top of the line. Honestly, I'd save a bit of money and get a good Fi or Re sub myself. The amp, you could bridge the second two channels to power a sub. However, it won't put a lot of power out for it. A separate amp is going to be better. [/QUOTE]

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