Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Beginner Build
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8534649" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>Its a mess. Buddy tried it recently on his explorer It was a sound mess, completely f'd up the soundstage.</p><p></p><p>Its best to have a head unit to actually control the time alignment and get a phantom center image instead. This is one of the reasons why the head unit is the most important. It does EVERYTHING you wish to achieve and more. No need for these wacky ideas.</p><p></p><p>Straight up quality drivers in the doors, tweeters in the A pillar/Sail panel on axis and everything properly time aligned and you will get better imaging than you can ever imagine.</p><p></p><p>Without the 80 prs and you using those crossovers and EQ, you will not have time alignment capabilities which = zero imaging/staging</p><p></p><p>You can input the distances from each tweeter and midrange into the 80 prs and it will delay the driver closest to you so that every sound wave from each driver reaches your ear at the same time thus creating a proper center stage.</p><p></p><p>I'd suggest reading up on what actually wins sound quality comps first and use their ideas like a tweeter plus 3 or 4 inch midrange fiberglassed in the A pillar on axis and a 6.5 inch midbass in the door or in the kick on axis(firing at your ear). Proper acoustical treatments aka sealing gaps, proper baffles, sound absorption. These treatments can be cheap to do. Not all Sound quality competition cars are expensive either. There were cars competing with under 400 dollar budget and placed very high as well. However You need proper processing power.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8534649, member: 650438"] Its a mess. Buddy tried it recently on his explorer It was a sound mess, completely f'd up the soundstage. Its best to have a head unit to actually control the time alignment and get a phantom center image instead. This is one of the reasons why the head unit is the most important. It does EVERYTHING you wish to achieve and more. No need for these wacky ideas. Straight up quality drivers in the doors, tweeters in the A pillar/Sail panel on axis and everything properly time aligned and you will get better imaging than you can ever imagine. Without the 80 prs and you using those crossovers and EQ, you will not have time alignment capabilities which = zero imaging/staging You can input the distances from each tweeter and midrange into the 80 prs and it will delay the driver closest to you so that every sound wave from each driver reaches your ear at the same time thus creating a proper center stage. I'd suggest reading up on what actually wins sound quality comps first and use their ideas like a tweeter plus 3 or 4 inch midrange fiberglassed in the A pillar on axis and a 6.5 inch midbass in the door or in the kick on axis(firing at your ear). Proper acoustical treatments aka sealing gaps, proper baffles, sound absorption. These treatments can be cheap to do. Not all Sound quality competition cars are expensive either. There were cars competing with under 400 dollar budget and placed very high as well. However You need proper processing power. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Beginner Build
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list