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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8534599" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>[quote name='Hookah']Is this an accurate summary of the suggestions so far...</p><p>HU</p><p>12" (only sub)</p><p>Amp</p><p>6.5s</p><p>Crossover</p><p>Equalizer</p><p></p><p>...</p><p>-A dedicated crossover (Clarion MCD360) and equalizer (Soundstream MPQ-7XO)</p><p>-The two good 6.5s being powered by the amp</p><p>-The JL 12W0v3-4 being powered by the amp (bridged)</p><p>-My two best current speakers also up front, powered by the head unit</p><p>-My two best current tweeters up front, powered by the head unit</p><p>-Optimized enclosures, placement, and interior design/materials</p><p>...All of that is roughly $500 as well.</p></blockquote><p></p><p>Outdated, inefficient and not anywhere near half as good as what today&#39;s technology offers. Also run the risk of noise with soo much things in the signal line. I&#39;d sell all that random stuff you have to get a better budget.</p><p>Here&#39;s a much better solution.</p><p></p><p>pioneer 80 prs head unit ran active. The 80 prs has more more than double crossover and EQ options than anything you listed with adjustable slope. The built in quality audio processor already makes music sound miles better from the start as well.</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-80PRS-Receiver-Crossover-Alignment/dp/B006Y44DAY" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-80PRS-Receiver-Crossover-Alignment/dp/B006Y44DAY</a></p><p></p><p>two best speakers on the amp, two best tweeters on the other two channels of the amp.</p><p>Then turn your door into an enclosure via deadening, sealing up all the gaps, making proper speaker baffles and prevent any sound from being trapped in the door cavity.</p><p></p><p></p><p>This amp is a better option if you can spend a little extra <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Power-P900-4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B005KVEPVO" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Power-P900-4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B005KVEPVO</a></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>[quote name='Hookah']...so you would shift money from the second sub to a HU with better control or a crossover? It&#39;s good news to me that enclosures make such a difference since that&#39;s in the free column, which I had already assumed from my general experience with speakers.</p><p></p><p>Is it at all possible that two subs would make a more powerful sound, and that one could be designed/known for punchiness and have an enclosure and placement that emphasizes that effect, while having a second one in a ported enclosure that is tuned for a lower frequency if careful attention is paid to avoiding cancellation?[/QUOTE]</p><p> </p><p>No its better to just design a perfect box that can play everything from the start. I doubt you have the years of experience nor the RTA, Termlab and DATS equipment to do a double tuned ported properly. </p><p></p><p>There is a box thats like that called a 6th order bandpass however thats extremely hard to get right as well which requires a ton of knowledge and testing and design and rebuilding even for the advanced box designers.</p><p></p><p>However best bet is to get a T-line enclosure designed by [USER=660529]@CSCStang[/USER]. We both listen to metal so yes we need our bass to punch hard on double bass pedals and we know what punch is... However even on remodified music that goes deep down low to 17-35hz, we smash those notes as well.</p><p></p><p>Main thing about subs is, you always want more output than you need, you can always attenuate via sub level or gain settings and EQ down what you dont need vs not having enough output and switching out your sub stage later on.</p><p>[/QUOTE]</p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8534599, member: 650438"] [quote name='Hookah']Is this an accurate summary of the suggestions so far... HU 12" (only sub) Amp 6.5s Crossover Equalizer ... -A dedicated crossover (Clarion MCD360) and equalizer (Soundstream MPQ-7XO) -The two good 6.5s being powered by the amp -The JL 12W0v3-4 being powered by the amp (bridged) -My two best current speakers also up front, powered by the head unit -My two best current tweeters up front, powered by the head unit -Optimized enclosures, placement, and interior design/materials ...All of that is roughly $500 as well.[/QUOTE] Outdated, inefficient and not anywhere near half as good as what today's technology offers. Also run the risk of noise with soo much things in the signal line. I'd sell all that random stuff you have to get a better budget. Here's a much better solution. pioneer 80 prs head unit ran active. The 80 prs has more more than double crossover and EQ options than anything you listed with adjustable slope. The built in quality audio processor already makes music sound miles better from the start as well. [url]https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-80PRS-Receiver-Crossover-Alignment/dp/B006Y44DAY[/url] two best speakers on the amp, two best tweeters on the other two channels of the amp. Then turn your door into an enclosure via deadening, sealing up all the gaps, making proper speaker baffles and prevent any sound from being trapped in the door cavity. This amp is a better option if you can spend a little extra [url]https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Power-P900-4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B005KVEPVO[/url] [quote name='Hookah']...so you would shift money from the second sub to a HU with better control or a crossover? It's good news to me that enclosures make such a difference since that's in the free column, which I had already assumed from my general experience with speakers. Is it at all possible that two subs would make a more powerful sound, and that one could be designed/known for punchiness and have an enclosure and placement that emphasizes that effect, while having a second one in a ported enclosure that is tuned for a lower frequency if careful attention is paid to avoiding cancellation?[/QUOTE] No its better to just design a perfect box that can play everything from the start. I doubt you have the years of experience nor the RTA, Termlab and DATS equipment to do a double tuned ported properly. There is a box thats like that called a 6th order bandpass however thats extremely hard to get right as well which requires a ton of knowledge and testing and design and rebuilding even for the advanced box designers. However best bet is to get a T-line enclosure designed by [USER=660529]@CSCStang[/USER]. We both listen to metal so yes we need our bass to punch hard on double bass pedals and we know what punch is... However even on remodified music that goes deep down low to 17-35hz, we smash those notes as well. Main thing about subs is, you always want more output than you need, you can always attenuate via sub level or gain settings and EQ down what you dont need vs not having enough output and switching out your sub stage later on. [/QUOTE]
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