Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Beginner Build
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="budahbuddy803" data-source="post: 8534478" data-attributes="member: 566041"><p>I suggest doing some reading up on SQ builds. Most use horn tweeters (not necessary) for a wider high frequency response, 6-8" mids dedicated to the midbass you are trying to get with you 10" sub and 5-6" mids for the, well, mid range, and then a sub for the lower frequencies. Active crossovers (rather than passive) allow you to set each individual speaker frequencies response so you can dictate the high and low cutoff points. Imaging properly can easily be done with 1 mid and 1 tweet per side, no reason for a rear stage due to imaging. For Sq, your main objective, IMO, is proper staging (sound comes from directly in front of you), proper imaging (sound hits the sweet spot (your ears)) at the same time, little to no whine or interference from your wiring/installation, "flat" response curve for all audible frequencies. I don't like a flat response curve.</p><p></p><p>Again, all this can be accomplished with a "standard" 2 or 3-way active setup. If you want it to be loud also, well, get equipment that can handle more power and supply the proper clean power. I think having all the "additional" equipment you are talking about will actually hurt your imaging, time alignment, and freq response curve. I suggest reading up on cancellation as well as other sq oriented articles.</p><p></p><p>Installation is more important than equipment. If you get the staging, sound deadening, wiring, clean power, and time alignment down, and tuning, you can run very cheap equipment and less equipment and sound better and possibly louder than people with an abundant amount of speakers.</p><p></p><p>My $0.02 is take what I say with a grain of salt and read articles by sound engineers and professional competitors. Check out the pros installations and equipment. All of that can be done very easily now n days. Good luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="budahbuddy803, post: 8534478, member: 566041"] I suggest doing some reading up on SQ builds. Most use horn tweeters (not necessary) for a wider high frequency response, 6-8" mids dedicated to the midbass you are trying to get with you 10" sub and 5-6" mids for the, well, mid range, and then a sub for the lower frequencies. Active crossovers (rather than passive) allow you to set each individual speaker frequencies response so you can dictate the high and low cutoff points. Imaging properly can easily be done with 1 mid and 1 tweet per side, no reason for a rear stage due to imaging. For Sq, your main objective, IMO, is proper staging (sound comes from directly in front of you), proper imaging (sound hits the sweet spot (your ears)) at the same time, little to no whine or interference from your wiring/installation, "flat" response curve for all audible frequencies. I don't like a flat response curve. Again, all this can be accomplished with a "standard" 2 or 3-way active setup. If you want it to be loud also, well, get equipment that can handle more power and supply the proper clean power. I think having all the "additional" equipment you are talking about will actually hurt your imaging, time alignment, and freq response curve. I suggest reading up on cancellation as well as other sq oriented articles. Installation is more important than equipment. If you get the staging, sound deadening, wiring, clean power, and time alignment down, and tuning, you can run very cheap equipment and less equipment and sound better and possibly louder than people with an abundant amount of speakers. My $0.02 is take what I say with a grain of salt and read articles by sound engineers and professional competitors. Check out the pros installations and equipment. All of that can be done very easily now n days. Good luck! [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Beginner Build
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list