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Battery's or no?
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<blockquote data-quote="Villeza1" data-source="post: 7847923" data-attributes="member: 608393"><p>I'd make sure that the power wire running to the amp was at least 0 gauge. If the amp has a 4 gauge input, then use a distro block to the amp. I'd also do a run of 0 gauge ground to the amp (distro that if necessary).</p><p></p><p>EDIT: I should explain this a little better...</p><p></p><p>Lost of people like to ground the amp somewhere in the rear (b/c most clueless installers suggest that's the best way to ground an amp...probably b/c that's what they were told as well...smh) but really it should be grounded to the front stage battery. In order for the entire electrical system/car audio system to benefit from the Big 3 upgrade, you need to run both pos and neg 0 gauge wires from the front stage batt to the rear amp (or to the extra batt if applicable).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Villeza1, post: 7847923, member: 608393"] I'd make sure that the power wire running to the amp was at least 0 gauge. If the amp has a 4 gauge input, then use a distro block to the amp. I'd also do a run of 0 gauge ground to the amp (distro that if necessary). EDIT: I should explain this a little better... Lost of people like to ground the amp somewhere in the rear (b/c most clueless installers suggest that's the best way to ground an amp...probably b/c that's what they were told as well...smh) but really it should be grounded to the front stage battery. In order for the entire electrical system/car audio system to benefit from the Big 3 upgrade, you need to run both pos and neg 0 gauge wires from the front stage batt to the rear amp (or to the extra batt if applicable). [/QUOTE]
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