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Battery Use While Car is Running
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<blockquote data-quote="knukonceptz" data-source="post: 2279262" data-attributes="member: 548221"><p>Got the video from the power supply test at a friends house. Turned out he uses a Battery Charger and it did not perform well for what we were trying to accomplish so the in car test will be better suited.</p><p></p><p>What we have - 8, yes 8 Batteries wired with aluminum rails, total cable length is maybe 5ft max so no loss there like we will see in the car. The charger wires are about 3ft long so in all we had 8ft from the charging point to the draw. I could not see any voltage loss with the minimal current we were drawing. We had to keep draw low ~ 20A as the charger has setting for 2/10/50/225, however the 50 and 225 settings put voltage over 16V so that really was not making a valid test of a car system.</p><p></p><p>So the 10A setting provided us with the most real world voltage, 13.9-14.1. We played a 35hz test tone (from a CD) using an Overdive as master volume control. We were able to establish a 18-22A load- double the power supply was putting out. We had two of every meter to make sure numbers were accurate and that the meters shown are correct. The charger is probably the weak link in the test, as we could only do 10A - its not exactly the high current test I was hoping for.</p><p></p><p>Video is a 30 sec clip of the 20A test, voltage stays at 13V for the majority of the time. Indicating the batteries are discharging above 12.6-12.8 nominal range.</p><p></p><p>When we really got on the system and draw 110-120A we would instantly see 12.8 and only once did it go below that but thats what 8 batteries will do. If we had less reserve, this number certainly would drop faster and over extended playing time would cause a very low voltage - but this is with a 10A power supply, Kicking it up to 50A did raise voltage, (also due to the fact is was trying to output 16V) but it would soon get back in the 12V range.</p><p></p><p>With this test, we did not get any voltage loss due to shortness of cabling (in car at 200A we should see near 1V in the rear) and very low load. What this shows is that if you have everything within feet of each other the HO ALT would be your best bet IF it can be made to match your entire system output. <strong>What this test does not include</strong> - variables such as engine RPM and the delay built into some regulators used in cars. No using regular music was used, it was just to hard to keep a consistant draw, made for too many variables added to the mix. To sum it up Taxi put it best - it is case dependant.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_w3_CO6oqw" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_w3_CO6oqw</a></p><p></p><p>(just uploaded so it may take a bit to be available)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="knukonceptz, post: 2279262, member: 548221"] Got the video from the power supply test at a friends house. Turned out he uses a Battery Charger and it did not perform well for what we were trying to accomplish so the in car test will be better suited. What we have - 8, yes 8 Batteries wired with aluminum rails, total cable length is maybe 5ft max so no loss there like we will see in the car. The charger wires are about 3ft long so in all we had 8ft from the charging point to the draw. I could not see any voltage loss with the minimal current we were drawing. We had to keep draw low ~ 20A as the charger has setting for 2/10/50/225, however the 50 and 225 settings put voltage over 16V so that really was not making a valid test of a car system. So the 10A setting provided us with the most real world voltage, 13.9-14.1. We played a 35hz test tone (from a CD) using an Overdive as master volume control. We were able to establish a 18-22A load- double the power supply was putting out. We had two of every meter to make sure numbers were accurate and that the meters shown are correct. The charger is probably the weak link in the test, as we could only do 10A - its not exactly the high current test I was hoping for. Video is a 30 sec clip of the 20A test, voltage stays at 13V for the majority of the time. Indicating the batteries are discharging above 12.6-12.8 nominal range. When we really got on the system and draw 110-120A we would instantly see 12.8 and only once did it go below that but thats what 8 batteries will do. If we had less reserve, this number certainly would drop faster and over extended playing time would cause a very low voltage - but this is with a 10A power supply, Kicking it up to 50A did raise voltage, (also due to the fact is was trying to output 16V) but it would soon get back in the 12V range. With this test, we did not get any voltage loss due to shortness of cabling (in car at 200A we should see near 1V in the rear) and very low load. What this shows is that if you have everything within feet of each other the HO ALT would be your best bet IF it can be made to match your entire system output. [B]What this test does not include[/B] - variables such as engine RPM and the delay built into some regulators used in cars. No using regular music was used, it was just to hard to keep a consistant draw, made for too many variables added to the mix. To sum it up Taxi put it best - it is case dependant. [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_w3_CO6oqw"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_w3_CO6oqw[/URL] (just uploaded so it may take a bit to be available) [/QUOTE]
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