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<blockquote data-quote="Saint211" data-source="post: 6822833" data-attributes="member: 564903">Do you have a link to or picture of the type of switch you are using?&nbsp;&nbsp; I would like to see it or know more about it.&nbsp; From the looks of the diagram what you have should work provided the switch is correct except for the diagram is missing the charging wire from the switch to the amp battery bank.A common misconception is that you need to fuse a main power line roughly for the fuse ratings of your equipment when infact its better to fuse for the capacity of the wire.&nbsp; be careful though because this somewhat depends on what wire you use and of what quality it is.&nbsp; How I would wire youir setup is I would fuse each power line back at about 300 amps, 250 amps if you have smaller 0 gauge or copper plated aluminum wire, something like knukonceptz klmx.&nbsp; Troubel you will have is finding a fuse breaker rated that high.&nbsp; If you choose to go with a breaker 150 amps would work since you normally shouldnt be exceeding that unless there is a short.&nbsp; 200-300 would be ideal as it allows a maximum amount of current to flow througth such a size wire without risking anything more in degree of safety.&nbsp; The idea for the 2x 0 AWG wires is to reduce the amount of voltage drop.&nbsp; Very good 4 AWG will handle up to 140-150 amps before fusing itself but in a 15&#039; run at peak power you would still have voltage drop.&nbsp; Voltage drop = less output from amplifier and also potential damage to audio equipment if it drops too low.&nbsp; In your case I would do the 2x 0AWG wire runs to the back, each with a breaker/fuse off of the battery bank in the back, run each one up to a distribution block in the front, preferably fused(if not fuse it before the block) then run one 1.1000 and one 4.150 on each line.&nbsp; The only thing you would have to decide would bge how to do your ground connections.&nbsp; For your setup everything would have to share a ground circuit, which in a car would typically be the chassis.&nbsp; Not sure how good a boat is for this, but with a battery bank of any size and give such a length of run I would probably run dedicated grounds.&nbsp; In your case 2 ground runs would be ideal, setup exactly like the powers but unfused.&nbsp; This brings me to another question of yours.&nbsp; Between each battery, 0 AWG would be ideal, as short as possible.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Saint211, post: 6822833, member: 564903"] Do you have a link to or picture of the type of switch you are using? I would like to see it or know more about it. From the looks of the diagram what you have should work provided the switch is correct except for the diagram is missing the charging wire from the switch to the amp battery bank. A common misconception is that you need to fuse a main power line roughly for the fuse ratings of your equipment when infact its better to fuse for the capacity of the wire. be careful though because this somewhat depends on what wire you use and of what quality it is. How I would wire youir setup is I would fuse each power line back at about 300 amps, 250 amps if you have smaller 0 gauge or copper plated aluminum wire, something like knukonceptz klmx. Troubel you will have is finding a fuse breaker rated that high. If you choose to go with a breaker 150 amps would work since you normally shouldnt be exceeding that unless there is a short. 200-300 would be ideal as it allows a maximum amount of current to flow througth such a size wire without risking anything more in degree of safety. The idea for the 2x 0 AWG wires is to reduce the amount of voltage drop. Very good 4 AWG will handle up to 140-150 amps before fusing itself but in a 15' run at peak power you would still have voltage drop. Voltage drop = less output from amplifier and also potential damage to audio equipment if it drops too low. In your case I would do the 2x 0AWG wire runs to the back, each with a breaker/fuse off of the battery bank in the back, run each one up to a distribution block in the front, preferably fused(if not fuse it before the block) then run one 1.1000 and one 4.150 on each line. The only thing you would have to decide would bge how to do your ground connections. For your setup everything would have to share a ground circuit, which in a car would typically be the chassis. Not sure how good a boat is for this, but with a battery bank of any size and give such a length of run I would probably run dedicated grounds. In your case 2 ground runs would be ideal, setup exactly like the powers but unfused. This brings me to another question of yours. Between each battery, 0 AWG would be ideal, as short as possible. [/QUOTE]

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