Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Awareness
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="winkychevelle" data-source="post: 7415853" data-attributes="member: 611804"><p>this was what i was mainly hitting on i could care less bout the design stealing. and im sure u can make a flat response in your vehicle as u have adequate testing to do so but i highly doubt that you could do the same in mine without having to have the car and do the same test. sometime doing something so small as adding a 10x10 sheet of deadener can throw off a whole design. which is why i say you can do it the first time remotely at least.</p><p></p><p>i have extensive testing in my car and my latest design has a slight peak at 58hz which is where the car peaks. i can work around this with a crossover but instead ill rebuild my box with a hair bit bigger port or a hair bit bigger volume and tweak it till i find what design worked best then i can go with a crossover.</p><p></p><p>but my system wasnt designed for flat response and my equipment wasnt either but with what i have so far i only get about a 2-3db difference from 29-75hz but this changes when my voltage picks up or drop or i open the door or turn on the mids and tweets i really hate trying to get a flat response as i like to have a low frequncy bump and a bump in the mid bass range 80-150hz</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="winkychevelle, post: 7415853, member: 611804"] this was what i was mainly hitting on i could care less bout the design stealing. and im sure u can make a flat response in your vehicle as u have adequate testing to do so but i highly doubt that you could do the same in mine without having to have the car and do the same test. sometime doing something so small as adding a 10x10 sheet of deadener can throw off a whole design. which is why i say you can do it the first time remotely at least. i have extensive testing in my car and my latest design has a slight peak at 58hz which is where the car peaks. i can work around this with a crossover but instead ill rebuild my box with a hair bit bigger port or a hair bit bigger volume and tweak it till i find what design worked best then i can go with a crossover. but my system wasnt designed for flat response and my equipment wasnt either but with what i have so far i only get about a 2-3db difference from 29-75hz but this changes when my voltage picks up or drop or i open the door or turn on the mids and tweets i really hate trying to get a flat response as i like to have a low frequncy bump and a bump in the mid bass range 80-150hz [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Awareness
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list