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Audison AP5.9 and Speaker Questions
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<blockquote data-quote="Zack1uk" data-source="post: 8682645" data-attributes="member: 677559"><p>Hi Eas</p><p></p><p>Had a bit of a change of plan. I've ended up with the following:</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Audison Prima 5.9 powering the tweeters and the Mids, this also uses the spare 4 channels of processing to output to the second amp</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Massive Audio PA25.4 powering the underseat woofers and a sub woofer in the boot</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Vifa/Peerless OT19 Ring radiators Tweeters in the doors</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">OEM Logic 7 mids in the doors</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">OEM HiFi woofers in the underseat enclosures</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Focal WX27 Utopia sub in a fibreglass enclosure in the side of the boot.</li> </ul><p></p><p>The Audison takes high level inputs from the speaker outputs. I tapped these from the connection to the underseat woofers (used a pair of modified £10 extensions from ebay). It De-Eqs and does all the processing.</p><p>Lots of people on DIYMA rate the vifa tweeters. Although the xt25 would fit in the 44mm housing in the door sail panels, its important that ring radiators are kept on-axis. So I opted for the smaller ones and with a combination of door insulation rubber draft proofing strips and hot glue mounted them on axis with the drivers seat.</p><p>There is a sound engineer on Bimmerpost who has tested the OEM HiFi underseat woofers to derive their specifications, and then compared them to many aftermarket ones, and he reckons they are very good, if not better than most. My own pink noise testing shows a big difference between left and right (sourced second hand, so one may have an issue). </p><p></p><p>I bought a Dayton audio calibration mic and used REW (Room Equalisation Wizard) and the Audison software to tune the system. I loosely followed the tuning guide on Audiofrog website and the series of 14 (or so) videos on youtube (don't remember who the poster was, but a quick search should find the series). My workflow summarised as follows:</p><p></p><p>Set balance and fader and all tone controls to neutral</p><p>Find clipping point on HU using mini oscilloscope (the BMW HU doesn't have a volume bar), but I counted 47 clicks from muted up to clipping (max volume was about 54). I used both 150Hz, and 1KHz -10db sine wave</p><p>Run through Audison set up as per manual. Make sure you write this to the device AND finalise it (or it won't stick).</p><p>Turn off crossovers in Audison, and disconnect speakers. Connect second amp, but not speakers and increase gains until clipping occurs (used 40Hz -10dB for sub channel, and 1KhZ -10db for woofers) using an a mini oscilloscope. </p><p></p><p>All the gain setting can be done by ear or with a voltmeter (plenty of youtube vids)</p><p></p><p>Then I connected all the speakers, set the crossovers (Sub 80Hz, Underseats 80Hz to 150Hz, Mids 150Hz to 3Khz, Tweeters 3Kz, all Linkwitz Riley 24db slopes), measured speaker distance for the time alignment, wrote this to device, finalised and saved as a file on the laptop.</p><p>Then used a correlated pink noise tone and REW to measure and equalise each speaker one by one. Started with left tweeter, then mid, then woofer, and then tweaked them all together. Then did the same for the right channel. I used a target house curve from Jazzi on DIYMA forums. I also tried the audiofrog target curve, but found the sound lacking sparkle. l tried not to boost anything, and only reduce.</p><p></p><p>I'm generally very happy with the results, however:</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">I still have some tweaking to do as the transition between the sub and the underseat woofers is not as smooth as I would like. This might be because the box isn't big enough for the sub or because of a problem woofer. regardless the bass doesn't sound quite as smooth or well controlled as I would like.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">I'd also like to try to bring the bass further forward (reduceing the TA distance and a pahse swap of 180 degree helped, but not enough)</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">And also try to push the soundstage further forward on the bonnet (it currently seems to come from right between my ears)</li> </ul><p></p><p>I would also say to anyone reading this, if you really want to match your equalisation to a target curve...do not buy one of these combined audison processor amps, as the software only lets you adjust a limited number of points in the frequency range (you are effectively dragging a continuous curve up or down), whereas something like the Bit One or Bit 10 or Helix processors let you adjust each frequency (and actually customise your own).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Zack1uk, post: 8682645, member: 677559"] Hi Eas Had a bit of a change of plan. I've ended up with the following: [LIST] [*]Audison Prima 5.9 powering the tweeters and the Mids, this also uses the spare 4 channels of processing to output to the second amp [*]Massive Audio PA25.4 powering the underseat woofers and a sub woofer in the boot [*]Vifa/Peerless OT19 Ring radiators Tweeters in the doors [*]OEM Logic 7 mids in the doors [*]OEM HiFi woofers in the underseat enclosures [*]Focal WX27 Utopia sub in a fibreglass enclosure in the side of the boot. [/LIST] The Audison takes high level inputs from the speaker outputs. I tapped these from the connection to the underseat woofers (used a pair of modified £10 extensions from ebay). It De-Eqs and does all the processing. Lots of people on DIYMA rate the vifa tweeters. Although the xt25 would fit in the 44mm housing in the door sail panels, its important that ring radiators are kept on-axis. So I opted for the smaller ones and with a combination of door insulation rubber draft proofing strips and hot glue mounted them on axis with the drivers seat. There is a sound engineer on Bimmerpost who has tested the OEM HiFi underseat woofers to derive their specifications, and then compared them to many aftermarket ones, and he reckons they are very good, if not better than most. My own pink noise testing shows a big difference between left and right (sourced second hand, so one may have an issue). I bought a Dayton audio calibration mic and used REW (Room Equalisation Wizard) and the Audison software to tune the system. I loosely followed the tuning guide on Audiofrog website and the series of 14 (or so) videos on youtube (don't remember who the poster was, but a quick search should find the series). My workflow summarised as follows: Set balance and fader and all tone controls to neutral Find clipping point on HU using mini oscilloscope (the BMW HU doesn't have a volume bar), but I counted 47 clicks from muted up to clipping (max volume was about 54). I used both 150Hz, and 1KHz -10db sine wave Run through Audison set up as per manual. Make sure you write this to the device AND finalise it (or it won't stick). Turn off crossovers in Audison, and disconnect speakers. Connect second amp, but not speakers and increase gains until clipping occurs (used 40Hz -10dB for sub channel, and 1KhZ -10db for woofers) using an a mini oscilloscope. All the gain setting can be done by ear or with a voltmeter (plenty of youtube vids) Then I connected all the speakers, set the crossovers (Sub 80Hz, Underseats 80Hz to 150Hz, Mids 150Hz to 3Khz, Tweeters 3Kz, all Linkwitz Riley 24db slopes), measured speaker distance for the time alignment, wrote this to device, finalised and saved as a file on the laptop. Then used a correlated pink noise tone and REW to measure and equalise each speaker one by one. Started with left tweeter, then mid, then woofer, and then tweaked them all together. Then did the same for the right channel. I used a target house curve from Jazzi on DIYMA forums. I also tried the audiofrog target curve, but found the sound lacking sparkle. l tried not to boost anything, and only reduce. I'm generally very happy with the results, however: [LIST] [*]I still have some tweaking to do as the transition between the sub and the underseat woofers is not as smooth as I would like. This might be because the box isn't big enough for the sub or because of a problem woofer. regardless the bass doesn't sound quite as smooth or well controlled as I would like. [*]I'd also like to try to bring the bass further forward (reduceing the TA distance and a pahse swap of 180 degree helped, but not enough) [*]And also try to push the soundstage further forward on the bonnet (it currently seems to come from right between my ears) [/LIST] I would also say to anyone reading this, if you really want to match your equalisation to a target curve...do not buy one of these combined audison processor amps, as the software only lets you adjust a limited number of points in the frequency range (you are effectively dragging a continuous curve up or down), whereas something like the Bit One or Bit 10 or Helix processors let you adjust each frequency (and actually customise your own). [/QUOTE]
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