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Are current ratings BS?
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<blockquote data-quote="helotaxi" data-source="post: 7028222" data-attributes="member: 550915"><p>The battery serves one other important function in the car's electrical system and that is as a filter. Get rid of the battery and the car's computer would have some issues with DC ripple and may not work correctly.</p><p></p><p>The automakers use the chassis as a part of the circuit for all the electrics in the car out of convenience. Boats work on a 12V DC system just like a car and car amps can and are used in boats. Try "grounding" an amp to the fiberglass hull of a boat. Everything in a boat is wired back to the battery.</p><p></p><p>The reason to run a wire back to the battery instead of using the chassis in a high power install is that the chassis is really a pretty crappy conductor.</p><p></p><p>As far as voltage and rating, wire application charts are based off a finite voltage drop but this is different than wire rating. The charts take length into account, ratings don't.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="helotaxi, post: 7028222, member: 550915"] The battery serves one other important function in the car's electrical system and that is as a filter. Get rid of the battery and the car's computer would have some issues with DC ripple and may not work correctly. The automakers use the chassis as a part of the circuit for all the electrics in the car out of convenience. Boats work on a 12V DC system just like a car and car amps can and are used in boats. Try "grounding" an amp to the fiberglass hull of a boat. Everything in a boat is wired back to the battery. The reason to run a wire back to the battery instead of using the chassis in a high power install is that the chassis is really a pretty crappy conductor. As far as voltage and rating, wire application charts are based off a finite voltage drop but this is different than wire rating. The charts take length into account, ratings don't. [/QUOTE]
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