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<blockquote data-quote="Diabolic" data-source="post: 178505" data-attributes="member: 544985"><p>Lucasi is a GOOD cue. Viking, Schon and Cuetec are also very good. McDermott and Meucci are so-so, but some people swear by them, so the important thing to remember is that this is just my opinion.</p><p></p><p>Different types of wood in the butt don't mean too much except how good or bad it looks and maybe a little difference in resistance to wear, humidity, dings, and so on (but that will be a SMALL difference, overall).</p><p></p><p>Different GRAINS of wood in the shaft, along with how the shaft is made, can make a tremendous difference. Look for tight grain patterns along the length of a shaft. Wide or "splotchy" patterns will have a less uniform response to the impact of a shot. The more force you apply, the more noticeable this can become. Predator and Lucasi shafts are as good as just about any player could ever need.</p><p></p><p>Hard tips, such as the Pro Series, will require more scuffing because they tend to flatten more easily when shooting or breaking. You have to be careful to maintain the correct shape when scuffing, for accurate english. Also, hard tips have a much higher tendency to miscue unless you keep it scuffed &amp; chalked at all times. I use the Hard Pro tip, which is the hardest available, but most people absolutely hate them. "Draw" shots turn into "jump" shots rather easily, if you aren't careful.</p><p></p><p>Soft tips will grab the cue ball more, for better english and spin. The only downside to soft tips is that they can "mushroom" (deform), or wear out quickly.</p><p></p><p>If you get a separate break cue, I'll offer some advice that is contrary to what most people will tell you: get a light, cheap stick with a hard tip. About an 18oz. cue is a good choice. Why? Because physically, the ball has no "memory" of how heavy the cue was that struck it. All that really matters is how fast it is going when it hits the rack, and a lighter cue allows a faster follow through when breaking. A friend of mine has a 24 mile-per-hour break and he uses an 18.5oz stick made of pine.</p><p></p><p>Another difference in value can be the weight distribution of a cue. Cheaper cues are inevitably lopsided or off-balance to some degree.</p><p></p><p>Once you pass the $200 range, the only real difference becomes aesthetics and materials. The number of points are a big factor, along with other detailings like the type of rings, the type of wrap, and so on. For example, the cue I designed, which is now being made for me by Shick, has 8 points, each consisting of multiple inlays using ebony, 14kt gold, and abalone. The 8-points repeat twice on the butt. The cue is very expensive because of both quality, Shick's reputation, and the aesthetics, but it probably won't hit much better than my much-loved Lucasi.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Diabolic, post: 178505, member: 544985"] Lucasi is a GOOD cue. Viking, Schon and Cuetec are also very good. McDermott and Meucci are so-so, but some people swear by them, so the important thing to remember is that this is just my opinion. Different types of wood in the butt don't mean too much except how good or bad it looks and maybe a little difference in resistance to wear, humidity, dings, and so on (but that will be a SMALL difference, overall). Different GRAINS of wood in the shaft, along with how the shaft is made, can make a tremendous difference. Look for tight grain patterns along the length of a shaft. Wide or "splotchy" patterns will have a less uniform response to the impact of a shot. The more force you apply, the more noticeable this can become. Predator and Lucasi shafts are as good as just about any player could ever need. Hard tips, such as the Pro Series, will require more scuffing because they tend to flatten more easily when shooting or breaking. You have to be careful to maintain the correct shape when scuffing, for accurate english. Also, hard tips have a much higher tendency to miscue unless you keep it scuffed & chalked at all times. I use the Hard Pro tip, which is the hardest available, but most people absolutely hate them. "Draw" shots turn into "jump" shots rather easily, if you aren't careful. Soft tips will grab the cue ball more, for better english and spin. The only downside to soft tips is that they can "mushroom" (deform), or wear out quickly. If you get a separate break cue, I'll offer some advice that is contrary to what most people will tell you: get a light, cheap stick with a hard tip. About an 18oz. cue is a good choice. Why? Because physically, the ball has no "memory" of how heavy the cue was that struck it. All that really matters is how fast it is going when it hits the rack, and a lighter cue allows a faster follow through when breaking. A friend of mine has a 24 mile-per-hour break and he uses an 18.5oz stick made of pine. Another difference in value can be the weight distribution of a cue. Cheaper cues are inevitably lopsided or off-balance to some degree. Once you pass the $200 range, the only real difference becomes aesthetics and materials. The number of points are a big factor, along with other detailings like the type of rings, the type of wrap, and so on. For example, the cue I designed, which is now being made for me by Shick, has 8 points, each consisting of multiple inlays using ebony, 14kt gold, and abalone. The 8-points repeat twice on the butt. The cue is very expensive because of both quality, Shick's reputation, and the aesthetics, but it probably won't hit much better than my much-loved Lucasi. [/QUOTE]
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